Gooey Butter Cookies, The Blue Owl and Kimmswick, MO

Kimmswick, Missouri, counts 97 official residents and two main attractions: the Anheuser Museum

Missouri countryside

& Estate—the ancestral home of a relative of the founder of the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, and the Windsor Harbor Road Bridge—a 60- (or thereabouts) foot long pedestrian bridge thought to be one of the oldest wrought iron spans in Missouri. Add a handful of buildings dating from 1860 and a few antique/craft shops and the whole scene still sounds a bit sleepy, yet the tiny town, located on the banks of the Mississippi river about 25 miles south of St. Louis, attracts hundreds of visitors each day.

And visitors come from around the world. The Kimmswick Visitors Center’s 2010-2011 register sports signatures from 16 countries and 49 states (not New Mexico, but New Mexicans could have slipped in without signing).

What’s the draw?

My guess is the Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery. Open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Tuesday thru Friday and from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends, the Blue Owl serves good, old fashioned breakfast and luncheon items, with specials including such Missouri country classics as biscuits & gravy, chicken and dumplings, pot pies and chicken-fried steak. But frankly, good as they are, the main courses don’t account for the crowds.

Desserts do.

Levee-high caramel apple pecan pie, peanut butter & chocolate cheesecake, coconut cream dream layer cake—OMG—and that’s just a start. At any given time, calorie seekers can find 25 handmade pies, 10 different specialty cakes and cheesecakes and at least two-dozen different pastries on the menu for dine in and/or take home. (Blue Owl also satisfies cravings by mail. See www.theblueowl.com for ordering instructions.)

Gooey butter goodies (derivatives of the gooey butter cake born in St Louis sometime in the early 1940s) top the list of perpetual favorites. In addition to cakes and cheesecakes, Blue Owl sells two heavenly gooey butter cookies: Gooey Butter Balls and Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies.

Mary Hostetter, owner of Blue Owl, said that both cookies are made from the same basic recipe, but the dough is shaped and baked differently to produce variety. I cut Mary’s recipe in half to print here—(a form of calorie control as I will devour as many cookies as I make). You can double the recipe if you dare.

GOOEY BUTTER COOKIES

Yield: About 2 to 3 dozen small Gooey Butter Balls or 6 Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies.

4 tablespoons butter, softened

Gooey Butter Balls

4 ounces cream cheese, softened

1 small egg

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

1 (about 18-ounce) box yellow cake mix

Powdered sugar

Put butter and cream cheese in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until well blended. Add egg and vanilla and beat until mixture is light and fluffy.

Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies

Add cake mix; beat until blended. Cover bowl and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Shape cookies:

To make Gooey Butter Balls, form dough into 1-inch balls and roll in powdered sugar. Place balls on a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, about 1-1/2 inches apart.

To make Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies, shape dough into 3-inch balls and put on a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, at least 2 inches apart. Gently pat balls into large flat rounds. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Place baking sheets in preheated oven and bake until balls/cookies are set but not beginning to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

Cool cookies and sprinkle with sifted powdered sugar before serving.

¶ Posted 17 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BREAKFAST § COOKIES § DESSERTS § MISSOURI § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off °

TEN REASONS TO LOVE TAOS, NEW MEXICO

Let’s be frank. Some visitors just don’t get Taos. Others fall in love at first sight. Taos is strange that way. The town speaks a different language to different people. Always has. Probably always will.

I’m in the love-it category. Why? Let me count the ways:

1. TAOS PUEBLO

Both a National Historic Landmark and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Taos Pueblo offers visitors a fascinating peek at the architecture and cultural life of an authentic Native American adobe pueblo that has been active for over 1,000 years and is considered the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States.

Taos Pueblo

2. HISTORY

Hunter-gatherers left potshards and pictographs in the area over 6,000 years ago, and they were followed by centuries of assorted settlers, invaders, and occupiers all contributing pieces of their own civilizations. The mix and mingling of cultures creates a special atmosphere in Taos and increases travel pleasure for anyone interested in culture and/or history.

3. ART

Tao’s rich art scene started in 1898 when two artists stopped to fix a broken wagon wheel and decided to stay. The town has drawn artists and their entourages (dealers, collectors and educators) happily ever after.

Taos artist Randall LaGro in his studio

4. PERSONALITIES

Kit Carson, Millicent Rogers, D.H. Lawrence, Mabel Dodge Luhan, Dennis Hopper and Willa Cather are just a few famous individuals who shed their spirit on the town. Their books, art, films and other work shine light on Taos and Taos spotlights them.

Lawrence painted Mabel’s bathroom windows because he felt “exposed” without curtains. The prude.

5. LOCATION

With an elevation of approximately 7,000 feet, on a sweeping desert mesa flanked by one of Northern New Mexico’s highest mountain peaks (Wheeler Peak), deepest gorge (Rio Grande Gorge) and loveliest forest (Carson National Forest), Taos offers a plethora of high-desert delights including postcard-perfect scenery, pristine air and dazzling, painter-pleasing natural light.

6. OUTDOOR SPORTS

Whitewater rafting in spring, hiking and biking in summer and fall, skiing in winter—stay in Taos and enjoy sports for all seasons.

7. SHOPPING

Collectors of contemporary art and Native American crafts find treasures in the town’s unique shops and galleries.

8. THE EARTHSHIP COMMUNITY

Taos is not only headquarters of the Earthship community, but also the place to see a large collection of the “radically sustainable” homes that take self-sufficiency to an ultimate level. Both weird and wonderful, Earthship buildings are constructed with natural and recycled materials (such as earth-packed automobile tires) and function independently off the grid, not needing to rely on public utilities.

An Earthship home.

9. ACCOMMODATIONS

When it comes to great places to stay, Taos supplies a broad choice ranging from homey B & Bs to top luxury resorts. My three personal favorite properties sit on Kit Carson Road, a short distance from each other and from the heart of town.

Inn on the Rio

Converted from a 1950s motel to a 12-rooms B & B, the Inn on the Rio wins accolades for its casual, comfortable ambiance, charming, hospitable owners and terrific breakfast. Good prices, easy parking and one of the few outdoor pools in Taos add to the draw.

Casa Benavides

Owned by Taos natives, Casa Benavides attracts “insiders” such as visiting artists and relatives of locals. The 39 rooms, located in several historically important buildings, differ as to decor and features, and an online matching system helps travelers fine the right fit. (I like the Anasazi room—but then, who wouldn’t.) I also adore the extravagant buffet of home-baked goodies set out, free of charge, for guests every afternoon.

El Monte Sagrado

El Monte Sagrado manages to combine environmentally sound practices with enticingly comfortable luxury. The lushly landscaped four-acre “eco lodge” includes two restaurant, a spa, a gift shop, a conference center (great for weddings) and 84 uniquely designed rooms/suites packed with amenities (fireplace, soaking tubs, original art, etc. etc. etc.). This is the place for guests who appreciate high style as well as rich substance.

10. FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

Mexican, New Mexican, Italian, French, all-American, casual, elaborate… Taos has all tastes covered. Although many places fall into the not-to-miss category, Guadalajara Grill heads the list as a favorite local hangout. In fact the super casual restaurant is so popular, it has two outlets in town, and both serve a fantastic shrimp cocktail.

Guadalajara Grill

SHRIMP COCKTAIL

(Adapted from a recipe from Guadalajara Grill, Taos, New Mexico.)

Yield: 1 large serving.

About 1 cup Clamato juice

1 tablespoon ketchup

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped tomato

1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled and seeded cucumber

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

1 teaspoon finely chopped cilantro

11 (21 to 25 count) cooked, peeled and deveined shrimp

1/3 ripe avocado, peeled and finely chopped

Salt

Serve with:

Wedges of fresh lime

Finely chopped jalapeno

Chopped cilantro

Hot-pepper sauce

Combine Clamato juice, ketchup, lime juice, tomato, cucumber, onion and cilantro in a non-reactive bowl; stir well. Add shrimp, avocado and salt to taste. Cover bowl and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours.

Serve chilled, in a fishbowl glass, with crackers or tortilla chips. Pass wedges of lime, chopped jalapeno pepper, chopped cilantro and hot-pepper sauce.

¶ Posted 13 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § APPETIZERS § NEW MEXICO § RECIPES § RESORTS § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off °

Tel Aviv Impressions and Great Hummus Recipe

In the beginning, God created heavens and the earth. Jaffa came later—according to archeologists, around 7500 BCE. And Tel Aviv, founded on the outskirts of Jaffe, claims April 11, 1909 as its birthday. That’s when 66 Jewish families purchased 12 acres of land on the mosquito infested, barren sand dunes outside of Jaffa, divvied up the land and started building. Today Tel Aviv is the thriving, lively and happening heart of entrepreneurial, financial and cultural Israel.

Tel Aviv as seen from Jaffa.

Most visitors enter Israel through Ben Gurion International Airport, located about 20 minutes from downtown Tel Aviv. Built of Jerusalem limestone quarried in the nearby Judean Hills, the airport is all bright and sleek with decorations worth study. Even if you are totally zonked from a long flight, look up as you walk the corridor to passport control. The mosaics above the entrance are actual remnants from 5^th and 6^th century Byzantine floors. The Greek inscription on the top right mosaic repeats a Biblical text: “Blessed shalt thou be when thou comest in, and blessed shalt thou be when thou goest out.” (Deuteronomy 28:6).

Two views of the Ben Gurion International Airport.

Archeologists define “tel “ or “tell” as a mound or hill built from layer upon on layer of different civilizations. Aviv is the Hebrew name for “spring.” The name symbolizes both the ancient and the renewed—which is particularly fitting for Tel Aviv, a city springing from one of the world’s oldest port cities and emerging as a mega modern international hub.

Located in central Israel, along 14 kilometers of Mediterranean shoreline, Tel Aviv sports first-rate beaches for summer lounging, swimming, playing, relaxing, visiting and enjoying sunshine fun.

The beach is also popular in winter.

How many ways do I love Tel Aviv, let’s start with 1,800—the number of cafes and restaurants that fill the city. Not-to-be missed food experiences include: big, bountiful, breakfast buffets served at most hotels; “Modern Israeli” cuisine produced by young Israeli chefs in upscale restaurants; casual fare served with coffee in coffee cafes; and Israel-style fast food (falafel and shawarma) found in street-side stands.

Lamb shawarma and chickpea falafel.

Over 90% of Tel Aviv is Jewish and the city pays attention to Shabbat (from sunset on Friday to an hour after sunset on Saturday). How does Shabbat impact tourists? Most businesses, kosher restaurants and cafes close Friday afternoon and all day Saturday, and public transportation options diminished (taxis still run). The larger hotels limit breakfast buffets to cold specialties or food that can be prepared ahead and kept warm. Some hotels have special Shabbat elevators that stop on every floor so that observers will not have to push electric buttons. The beaches are extra busy. Early Friday evening is quiet, as most residents join family and friends for a traditional Shabbat dinner (try to score an invitation, or hook up with a hotel as the Shabbat feast is as good as it gets) and after dinner, the nightclubs fill and the good times roll.

In 2003 UNESCO proclaimed the “White City” (historic zone) of Tel Aviv a World Cultural Heritage site. The designation recognizes the city’s 3500 to 4000 Bauhaus-style buildings erected from 1920s to 1950s by immigrant architects who studied at the Bauhaus School in Germany. Interpreted for the Tel Aviv environment, the Israeli International (Bauhaus) architecture focuses on simplicity of design, inexpensive building materials, and functionality over frou frou. Most structures are two to three-story, cubic shapes with flat roofs, white walls and facades with ledges offering shade.

Many Bauhaus buildings line the lovely Rothschild Boulevard.

So let’s talk about Jaffa, which claims to be the oldest port city in the world. The old (and I am talking history dating to the Ice Age, with “modern” referenced in Greek mythology and the Bible) city officially merged with the city of Tel Aviv in 1950. Despite being a part of Tel Aviv, Jaffa remains a physical and psychological separate entity with a multi-ethnic population and shopping stops that range from the shabby flea market to super chic art galleries.

A view of Jaffa in the rain.

Tel Aviv’s walls sport an unusual amount of both graffiti and cats.

Tel Aviv graffiti.

Tel Aviv cats.

Mild Mediterranean weather, flat coastal land and dedicated bike paths throughout the city make biking a totally cool, fun, health-enhancing and cheap way to tour.

Bike rental facilities dot tourist areas in Tel Aviv.

The land of milk and honey’s cornucopia also overflows with luscious produce, so much that Israel produces over 95% of its own food and has plenty leftover for export. Israelis are creative inventors and developed new agricultural technologies to tame land unfriendly to farming. Citrus, olives, avocado, kiwi, corn, tomatoes, cucumber, dates, bananas, berries—name it—the cup runneth over.

I’ve heard Tel Aviv called the “city that doesn’t stop.” People say that the weeknight bar and club scene is like a weekend in any other city of the world, and that the weekend is like New Year’s Eve. I am told the party starts around 11 p.m. with dancing, drinking, and general merry making continuing to morning. I don’t know as I am an early-to-bed-early-to-rise type, but I have been told the town positively rocks. And I believe it—and am sure the calorie-burning dancing accounts for all those buff bodies on the beach.

And the winners for Israel’s top favorite dishes are—sharing second and third place: shawarma (spit roasted meat) and falafel (deep fried balls of ground chickpeas) both served inside a pita pocket along with tahini, chopped vegetable salads and assorted pickles. The first-place number one dish served at every hotel breakfast, every restaurant meal, every snack stand, every food outlet is…are you ready…. hummus.

There are as many variations to hummus as cooks making it. I like hummus very lemony and topped with feta as in the recipe here. If you don’t want the lemon, eliminate the zest. If you prefer a different flavor (garlic, cumin, roasted red pepper) add it. Toppings, too, are adjustable.

When it comes to the best hummus, do your own thing—make yourself happy.

HUMMUS

Yield: about 8 servings as an appetizer.

About 2 cups cooked chickpeas (see note)

1/2 cup tahini

Grated zest from 1 lemon (optional)

Juice from 1/2 lemon

Extra virgin olive oil

Chickpea cooking liquid, as needed

Salt

Optional garnish—use any or all

Whole chickpeas

2 ounces crumbled feta cheese

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Juice from 1/2 lemon

Pita bread

Place the chickpeas, tahini, lemon zest and juice from 1/2 lemon in the bowl of a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add 1/4 cup olive oil to the mixture. If the hummus is too thick, or if you want a silkier texture, with motor running, add a little reserved cooking liquid and/or more oil to mixture until desired texture is reached. Add salt to taste.

Mound hummus in the center of a plate. With the back of a large spoon, create a shallow well in the mound. Drizzle olive oil over top of hummus and garnish as desired with whole chickpeas, feta, parsley and/or lemon juice. Serve with pita bread, cut into wedges

NOTE–TO COOK CHICKPEAS Put good-quality, small dried chickpeas in a large strainer and wash under cold running water, removing any foreign matter or damaged chickpeas. Transfer chickpeas to a large bowl or pot, cover well with cold water, add a pinch of baking soda and let soak overnight.

Drain chickpeas from soaking liquid and, again, wash well under cold running water.

Put chickpeas in a large pot and generously cover with water. Add another pinch of baking soda. Set pot over moderate heat and bring water to a low boil. Skim any foam and/or skins from top of water. Boil until chickpeas are very soft and can be easily smashed when pressed between two fingers, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Drain chickpeas (reserve cooking liquid to make hummus).

PEACE

¶ Posted 01 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § APPETIZERS § ISRAEL § RECIPES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Bauhaus, hummus, Israel, Jaffa, Tel Aviv

Dinner Jumping in Sasbachwalden

It’s been honored as “the most beautiful town in Germany, “but despite a picture-perfect setting surrounded by hills of vineyards on the sunny side of the Black Forest, and despite being loaded with picturesque timbered houses overflowing with flowers, Sasbachwalden is not just a pretty face. It is also a village dedicated to family and fitness travel, fresh-air activity and fabulous food. YES!

But let’s cut to the chase.

The tiny community located in the heart of what is called, “Germany’s finest Gourmet corner,” boasts 40 restaurants. These range from wine-focused taverns to homey country inns to fine-dining establishments starred by Michelin and most offer must-try specialties.

Although the cornucopia creates the classic foodie conflict—so much to eat/so little time—not to worry. Forward-thinking Sasbachwalden restaurateurs have come up with a totally pleasing program that allows visitors to sample four different restaurants in one fine meal.

“Dinner jumping,” works like this: you reserve and prepay (65 Euros—about $84), by phone or online at least 14 days in advance of the dinner, and then pick up your dinner voucher at the tourist office when you reach Sasbachwalden. The voucher lists four restaurants, all within walking distance of each other, each serving a different course of your extravagant four-course meal. You don’t order specific dishes, but vegetarian options are available and the “surprise” menu represents the best of the chef’s repertoire using the freshest ingredients available that day.

My dinner jumping started at Gasthof Zum Holzwurm with the house-specialty Flammkuchen. The pizza-like bites of heaven served as an appetizer to the appetizer course, so as soon as I devoured the Flammkuchen I was served a generous first-course salad of greens topped with topped with vegetables and fish. Next, at Restaurant Sonne, I gobbled the second course (a rich barley risotto), before moving on to Hotel-Restaurant Engel for the main course (perfectly cooked lamb with all the trimmings). Dessert at the Restaurant Fallert included five exotic-flavored ice creams and mousses followed by a plate of the chef’s most divine candies and miniature pastries. OMG. Sehr gut!

Mineral water and appropriate wine (usually the region’s famed Alde Gott) accompanied each course as did warm attentive service.

Four restaurants/four courses/flowing wine/ fabulous experience—foodies, you need to get yourself to Sasbachwalden.

For more information or to reserve, click here: Sasbachwalden Dinner Jumping.

For a sampling of the wunderbar Flammkuchen, read on.

FLAMMKUCHEN

Yield: 1 flammkuchen, 4 large pieces.

1/4 pound thickly sliced smoky bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick lardons

1 small to medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 cup quark

1/2 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons chopped chives

Salt

Pepper

Crust (You can use packaged thin pizza crusts, or thawed frozen pizza or bread dough or homemade pizza dough. If using dough, roll it 1/8-inch thick into a 12-inch circle.)

Start heating oven to 450°F.

Put bacon in a medium skillet and set over a moderate heat until the bacon renders its fat and just starts to brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper towel to drain. Add onions to bacon fat in skillet and cook until just softened, but not browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer onions to a paper towel to drain. Set bacon and onions aside until cool.

Combine quark, sour cream and chives.

Spread mixture over crust coming to within 1/4 inch of the edge. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle onions and bacon evenly over the crust.

Set flammkuchen on the bottom rack of the preheated 450°F oven and bake until the crust turns golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

Serve immediately.

¶ Posted 31 December 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § APPETIZERS § GERMANY § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO—GLORY BE

Ask locals to name the things that shaped St. Louis’s historical character as well as contribute to the city’s current charisma and everyone will reply: baseball and beer. Chocolate lovers will add Bissinger’s.

Beloved by St. Louisans since first opening in 1927, Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier continues to make traditional high-quality chocolates and old-fashioned confections (HALLELUJAH), but keeps current by adding contemporary flavors to its candy repertoire and innovative concepts to it’s retail outlets.

For example the Bissinger’s store located on Maryland Plaza in the heart of St. Louis, double dips as a shop selling chocolates as well as a café serving to-die-for chocolate desserts (and wine and savories).

One can enjoy St. Louis baseball and beer outside of St. Louis via TV and bars, and one can buy a selection of Bissinger’s candies through the Internet and catalogues, but to capture the magic of the café’s divine desserts, you have to be there. Unless you score a recipe. Look below. GLORY BE!

Dave Owens

Bissinger’s chief chocolatier, Dave Owens, created Milk Chocolate Semifreddo for Maryland Plaza and claims that the semi-frozen magic is his favorite best seller. Although Owens dresses up the café version in fancy garnish (pictured), he says that the recipe is versatile and can “wow” even if garnished with nothing more than a sprinkling of toffee, a dab of whipped cream and/or a shot of liqueur. AMEN

MILK CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO

(Adapted from a recipe supplied by Dave Owens of Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier. Although the original recipe calls for milk chocolate, the semifreddo is also fabulous when made with dark chocolate.)

Yield: 8 servings.

3 large egg yolks

6 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup milk

1/2 vanilla bean, halved or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

6 ounces milk (or dark) chocolate, chopped

1-1/3 cups heavy cream

Choice of garnish:

About 8 tablespoons coarsely chopped chocolate-covered English toffee (optional)

Whipped cream (optional)

Dark chocolate shavings (optional)

White chocolate shavings (optional)

Hazelnut, amaretto or chocolate liqueur (optional)

Beat egg yolks in the top of a double boiler or in a large mixing bowl until well combined. Continue beating, gradually adding sugar until mixture thickens. Beat in milk. If using the vanilla bean, add it to mixture.

Put water in the bottom of a double boiler or a saucepan, set over low heat and let water get hot. Set top of double boiler or bowl over hot water and, whisking constantly, cook mixture until it is hot and thickens into a custard, about 10 minutes. Do not overheat or overcook.

Remove custard from the heat and, if using, remove the vanilla bean, scraping seeds into the custard. If using vanilla extract rather than vanilla bean, add extract to custard. Add chocolate and whisk until chocolate melts completely and custard is well blended. Set custard aside to cool completely.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture until completely combined.

Spoon the mixture into eight ramekins, chocolate dessert cups, or dessert molds. Cover with plastic or foil and freezer several hours or overnight, until mixture is frozen solid.

To serve, (if using molds, unmold onto dessert plates) allow the semifreddo to stand at room temperature for 10 minutes. Garnish as desired, with chopped toffee, whipped cream, shaved chocolate and/or liqueur.

Serve immediately. Expect raves.

¶ Posted 12 December 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § CHOCOLATE § DESSERTS § RECIPES ‡ Comments Off °

WHERE TO EAT IN MILWAUKEE

No one knows the secrets of Milwaukee’s food scene better than Theresa Nemetz.

Theresa Nemetz on a Food Tour

A Milwaukee native and tourism ambassador with a passion for the city, Theresa showcases the food of Milwaukee through Milwaukee Food Tours, a business she runs with husband Wade.

The various 2-1/2 hour tours take participants on walks through Milwaukee’s historic, food-laden neighborhoods, stopping at restaurants, bakeries, and other specialty food outlets for sampling and savoring.

According to Theresa, “Milwaukee has a rich history, and the city’s cuisines are reflective of the many German, Italian and Polish influences of its immigrant past.”

Theresa looks to delicious ethnic Milwaukee when not only designing Food Tours, but also choosing restaurants to recommend to visitors. When asked for a list of personal favorite Milwaukee restaurants, Theresa replied:

MADER’S RESTAURANT, 1041 North Old World 3rd Street 414-271-3377

To sample the city’s German cuisine, step back in time and visit Mader’s on Old World Third, a cobblestone street once considered the heart of Milwaukee’s German activity.

Mader’s offers an extensive menu and you can’t go wrong trying their most famous German dishes, two of which are the Pork Shank with an apple demi-glaze and Rouladen, a beef tenderloin rolled with pickle spear, smoked bacon and caramelized onions. Or if you just can’t decide, go with the German Sampler, which includes Wiener Schnitzel, Kasseler Rippchen and Rheinischer Sauerbraten with potato dumpling, sauerkraut and red cabbage.

CARADARO CLUB PIZZA, 5010 W. Vliet, .476.7700

Milwaukee was strongly influenced by the Italians and Sicilians, and so how could you visit Milwaukee without a sample of excellent cracker thin crust Sicilian pizza? Any of the local favorites, such as Balistreri’s, Barbiere’s, DeMarini’s and Zaffiro’s, are divine, but for a special treat, try stopping at the The Original Caradaro Club for a slice of pie using the original recipe for the first pizza ever served in Milwaukee.

RISTORANTE BARTOLOTTA, 7616 West State Street, 414-771-7910

My personal favorite of the Bartolotta Family restaurants, is Ristorante Bartolotta, located in the quaint village of Wauwatosa, just outside of downtown Milwaukee.

Ristorante Bartolotta’s menu features hand-made pastas, (I especially like the Pappardelle al Ragu d’Anatra, a hand-cut Tuscan ribbon pasta tossed with a traditional slow-braised duck ragu) and seafood dishes (my favorite: Grigliata Mista di Mare, a seaside-style assortment of grilled seafood).

THREE BROTHERS, 2414 S Saint Clair St, 414-481-7530

Tucked away on an unassuming corner of the Bay View neighborhood you’ll find Three Brothers, a charming Serbian restaurant owned by Branko Radicevic, a 2002 James Beard award winner. The signature Serbian dish, burek, requires 45 to 60 minutes of attention in the kitchen before arriving at your table, but it is worth every minute. While waiting, be sure to nibble on the stuffed grape leaves as well as the Serbian hors d’oeuvres platter. (Please note – cash only.)

POLONEZ, 4016 South Packard Avenue, 414-482-0080

George and Aleksandra Burzynski

Another great place for Eastern European food is Polonez, owned and operated by Polish immigrants George and Aleksandra Burzynski. George cooked alongside his grandmother as a child, learning how to make her traditional Polish dishes, which he put on Polonez’s menu. In my opinion, the Pierogi – Polish dumplings – and Czarnina soup are a must.

COMET CAFÉ, 1947 N. Farwell Avenue, 414-273-7677

Comet Café offers a wide lunch and dinner menu, but their passion is firm in everything bacon. Don’t miss their Sunday brunch complete with FREE bowls of bacon at each table, Bloody Mary’s topped with bacon and Bacon Cakes (you guessed it – pancakes with bacon in them).

SANFORD, 1547 North Jackson Street, 414-276-9608

Chef Justin Aprahamian presents an ever-changing menu to his guests at Sanford on Milwaukee’s East Side. Justin studied with and recently took over the operation from founder, Chef Sandy D’ Amato. Sandy received accolades both locally and nationally in Food and Wine, Bon Appetit, Wine Spectator, Milwaukee Magazine, Chicago Tribune, New York Times and Esquire.

What to order? Just ask for the Seven-Course Surprise Tasting Menu where caution is thrown to the Sanford kitchen and a custom tailored menu is created for you!

WOLF PEACH, 1818 North Hubbard Street, 414-374-8480

Arguably offering one of the best views of downtown Milwaukee, Wolf Peach sits high above the city and offers a farm-to-table menu. Ask for seating on the patio with a view and dine on some gourmet favorites, including their selection of wood-fired pizzas.

KOPP’S CUSTARD, 5373 N. Port Washington Ave., 414-961-2006

Known equally for their jumbo butter burgers and frozen custard, Kopp’s Custard is a must when in Milwaukee. Nothing can fully describe that overwhelming taste of buttery goodness with your first burger bite, or the deliciousness of any of their rich custard flavors. Although there are multiple locations, be sure to visit the Glendale location just north of downtown Milwaukee – it is on the site of the former Milky Way drive-in restaurant, which is rumored to be inspiration for Arnold’s Drive-In of Happy Days TV fame.

LAKEFRONT BREWERY, 1872 N. Commerce St., 414-372-8800

You can’t leave Milwaukee without experiencing a classic Friday Night Fish Fry, and what better place to do so than Lakefront Brewery, complete with polka music by Brew Haus Polka Kings and of course, a pint of Milwaukee-brewed beer. Consistently voted the #1 fish fry in Milwaukee, chose between the beer battered cod or the lightly breaded perch. While you’re there, be sure to stick around for a tour of the brewery – cheers, from Milwaukee!

¶ Posted 05 December 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS

Dark colored chocolates and goodies from Britain,

Give me a taste and I’m totally smitten.

Scallops and lobster that come to my door,

Are some of the feast foods I simply adore.

Bright shiny cookbooks and facials with red wine,

Flying to Paris on OpenSkies airline.

Wanting suggestions for what Santa brings?

Here are the links to my favorite things (hint hint):

Liqueur-filled Pralines from CHOCOLAT in Fredericksburg, Texas.

Outrageously flavorful tidbits of chocolate magic from GAIL AMBROSIUS CHOCOLATIER in Madison Wisconsin.

British food specialties for that Dickens’s approach to the holidays from

MARKS & SPENCER.

Top quality seafood sent overnight delivery from ANDERSON SEAFOODS.

Biz beds or Biz seat on OPENSKIES, the all business class airline with routes to France from NYC.

Spa facial using the wine-based SanVino products at WALD & SCHLOSSHOTEL (Forest and Castle Hotel) in Friedrichsruhe, Germany.

And some just released cookbooks:

SIMPLY TRUFFLES by Patricia Wells

THE FOOD52 COOKBOOK by Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs

ULTIMATE COOKIES by Julia Usher with photographs by Steve Adams

¶ Posted 20 November 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BOOKS § CHOCOLATE § SPAS ‡ Comments Off °

SLEEPING AROUND: IRELAND

Tourists like Ireland for many reasons, including Guinness, golf and the easy-going graciousness of the Irish people. I fancy the country for the accommodations and love to sleep around, savoring townhouses, boutique hotels, country manors and ancient castles. I choose properties that not only sport distinguishing factors reflecting Ireland’s rich history and/or culture, but also combine extraordinary comfort with unpretentious charm. The following are favorite Emerald Isle gems:

THE MERRION HOTEL

Upper Merrion Street, Dublin

One would think that 142 well-appointed guest rooms, a spa, swimming pool and fitness center, an impressive collection of Irish art, two gardens, two bars, two restaurants (one being Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, a Michelin two-star), and a superb location in Dublin’s city center would be enough attributes for The Merrion Hotel, but the list doesn’t begin to touch the magic of this five-star property.

Dublin is considered one of the greatest Georgian cities in the world, and The Merrion occupies four historic, red-brick Georgian townhouses dating from 1760. Scrupulous restoration preserves the original integrity of the architecture and thoughtful interior design helps the hotel radiate an ambiance of gracious gentility. Peat fires burn in drawing room fireplaces. Antique chandeliers light public rooms. Period furniture provides a feel of ancestral hominess.

But don’t think the Merrion is wedded to the past. The lovely guest rooms include every contemporary toy, such as Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs and multi-line phones with voicemail.

Located opposite from Government buildings and an easy stroll to restaurants, pubs, shopping, museums and a variety of sight seeing options, The Merrion provides top quality stays along with an opportunity to experience the best of Georgian Dublin from the inside out.

THE G HOTEL

Wallpark, Dublin Road, Galway

Perhaps the “g” in the g Hotel stands for Galway, the city of its location, or maybe g refers to glamour, glitz and glitter, as this five-star boutique hotel bursts with pumped-up, star-studded style.

Design director Philip Treacy used supermodels and Hollywood divas for inspiration when creating the hotel. Public rooms positively compete with each other for the spotlight. The hotel’s three themed lounges—the Grand Salon, a silver-and-cream-movie-fantasy set with a 300 dazzling mirrored balls hanging from the ceiling; the Pink Salon, a flamboyant maze of hot-flash pink and dizzy black and white stripes; and the darkly dramatic Blue Lounge—totter on the edge of kitsch. And the hotel’s restaurant is only a tad more subdued with mood lighting bringing out the brilliance of white tablecloths and neon-colored seating.

Restraint and tranquility comes into play with the spa (an oasis of quiet) and the 101 guest rooms.

Designed with a nod to Mother Nature, guest rooms feature restful neutral colors and seaside decorations as well as all of the amenities expected in a five-star hotel.

Located overlooking Lough Atalia, and a few minutes drive from Galway’s city center, the hotel offers easy access to both city and regional exploring. The g will please those seeking both extravagant style and extraordinary substance.

ASHFORD CASTLE

Cong

Co Mayo

“A man’s home is his castle,” is not just a proverb. In Ireland it’s a literal truth. Ashford Castle has been a home since the Anglo-Norman de Burgo family laid the first stones in 1228. Other notables calling Ashford home include Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, who bought the estate in 1852, adding acreage, roads and two large Victoria-styled extensions and his son, Lord Ardilaun, who took over in 1868, extending the gardens and rebuilding the entire west wing.

The property has traded owners happily ever after, being turned into a luxury hotel in 1939 as it remains to this day (under several different owners).

As one would expect from a true-blue castle, public rooms are no less than baronial, reflecting centuries of care in the rich oak paneling, period pieces and treasured objects de art.

In addition to the 83 classy and classic guest rooms , which differ greatly in size and configuration, Ashford Castle hosts a variety of places to eat and drink, a business center, a boutique and a health centre.

Bordered by Lough Corrib and the River Cong, and isolated on 350 acres filled with gardens, forests and glorious green land (where much of The Quiet Man was filmed), the grounds of Ashford Castle provide opportunity for a number of outdoor pursuits, including golf, fishing, archery, horse-back riding, clay-pigeon shooting and the darling of Medieval European nobles, falconry.

BELLINTER HOUSE HOTEL

Navan, Co. Meath

Staying at Bellinter House is like staying with a quirky friend who owns a baronial country estate, employs a wonderful chef, and welcomes you to share the bounty.

The Palladian style-mansion, originally built in 1750, was renovated in 2004 and opened as a four-star spa hotel. Guest rooms fill various buildings over the rambling property and differ greatly as to size and décor, yet all contain plasma screen TV, WiFi, and an individually controlled “mood” lighting system.

By far the most fun and dramatic guests rooms are located in the Main House, as are the public rooms, which include the well-known Eden Restaurant (recipe follows), a bar, a games room and a library stocked not only with books, but also wellingtons (boots) for guests to borrow when tramping through the countryside. Well-worn wood floors, retro lighting, vintage and hand-made furniture, and some odd decorating touches (cow motifs—go figure) add to the Main House’s casual, lived-in character.

Bellinter House sits on the bank of river Boyne, in the lushly green parkland sweeps of County Meath and activities include hiking, biking, fishing, horseback riding, golf and sightseeing (important prehistoric sites as well as Trim castle, where Mel Gibson filmed Braveheart, are nearby).

BEEF AND GUINNESS STEW

(Adapted from a recipe supplied by Eden Restaurant, Bellinter house.)

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

About 2 pounds beef stew meat, cut into large chucks

4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon paprika

About 2 cups Guinness, divided

2 sprigs rosemary, divided

2 sprigs thyme, divided

Oil

1 large onion, peeled and cubed

3 carrots, peeled and cubed

3 stalks celery, cubed

About 4-1/4 cups jus (see note) or very rich flavorful beef stock

1-1/2 tablespoons butter

8 ounces mushrooms, halved or quartered

Cooked green beans

Mashed potatoes

Marinate beef for one or two days before making the stew.

TO MARINATE THE BEEF: Put beef in a glass bowl (or a plastic bag). Sprinkle garlic and paprika over beef and toss well. Add about 3/4 cup Guinness, one sprig thyme and one sprig rosemary; stir gently. Cover bowl or secure bag and refrigerate overnight or up to 2 days, adjusting ingredients occasionally, if necessary to redistribute marinade.

TO COOK

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Drain and discard marinade from beef. Dry beef with paper towels. Heat a little oil in a Dutch oven or large heavy ovenproof pan and brown beef cubes on all sides. Remove beef from pan and set aside.

Add onion, carrot and celery to pan and sauté until onion just begins to brown. Add jus to pan and stir. Add beef, remaining Guinness, rosemary and thyme. Stir gently. Bring liquid just to a boil.

Cover pan and place in a preheated 400°F oven until beef is very tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, heat butter in a skillet and sauté mushrooms until brown. Just before serving, add mushrooms to stew.

Serve stew in bowls, topped with green beans and mashed potatoes.

NOTE: Eden Restaurant makes jus by slowly simmering rich beef stock with red wine until the liquid is reduced significantly. For this recipe you can simmer 2 quarts of rich flavorful beef stock with about 1 cup red wine until liquid is reduced to about 4 cups.

¶ Posted 15 November 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ACCOMMODATIONS § ENTREES § RECIPES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Ashford Castle, beef, Bellinter House, G Hotel, Guinness, Ireland, Merrion Hotel, stew

THAILAND PLEASURES

I don’t want to talk about this too much; it might make the Gods jealous. On the other hand, the whole SiamJunk experience is so wonderful that it deserves sharing.

Imagine being in Phuket (Southern Thailand), boarding a yacht equipped with six luxury en-suit cabins and an attentive staff that includes a gifted cook.

Perhaps you will head off to the clear waters of the Andaman Sea—or the Indian Ocean—or the Gulf of Thailand; whatever the itinerary, it will be tailored as you desire, as will your activities. You might ask to stop for swimming, diving, snorkeling, fishing, or beachcombing on a slew of virtually virginal tropical islands, or perhaps you prefer to lounge on one of the decks and soak up the sun and then chase the sunset, always surrounded by ever-changing, spectacular scenery.

Too good to be true? No, indeed. The Siam Junk is yours for the charter.

Built in 2007, of Burmese teak and ironwood, The Siam Junk is designed to resemble the ancient sailing vessels used for centuries to carry goods between Thailand and Myanmar. The Junk’s Asian decor reinforces the ships exotic exterior providing a perfect marriage of function and style. At 113-feet long and 23-feet wide, the Junk is large enough to accommodate 12 to 18 overnight guests or up to 60 day trippers in comfort—and it is small enough to squeeze into tight passages unavailable to larger ships.

Charter The Siam Junk for the day, a week, a month or two—but once you taste the food, you will want to stay forever (that’s a promise—see sample recipe below).

In addition to charters, The Junk offers a few set cruises, many designed for photography groups and all satisfying to food lovers.

Unique, delightful, relaxing, fun—oops, as I said, I really shouldn’t talk about it too much.

THE SIAM JUNK’S

YELLOW CURRY WITH CHICKEN AND SQUASH

Yield 2 to 4 servings.

13 to 14 ounces coconut milk

2 tablespoons yellow Thai curry paste

10 ounces skinned, boned chicken breast, cut into bite-size pieces

10 ounces butternut, acorn or pumpkin squash flesh, cut into bite-size pieces

1 tablespoon or more sugar

1 tablespoon or more of good quality fish sauce

Thai basil or mint leaves, optional garnish

Put coconut milk in a heavy wok or frying pan, set wok over moderate heat and bring milk to a simmer. Add the curry paste and stir well. Once the curry paste has been thoroughly incorporated, bring mixture back to the simmer. Add the chicken and squash and stir well.

Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until chicken is cooked through and squash is tender, about 30 minutes.

Add sugar and fish sauce until the taste is good to you.

Serve immediately garnished with basil or mint leaves if desired.

¶ Posted 04 November 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § CRUISING § ENTREES § RECIPES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

NEW GLARUS AND GOOD FONDUE RECIPE

Can you guess where I am? Let me give you some hints. Cheese is the major product, with raclette and fondue the favorite dishes. People dress in embroidered folk costumes and yodel. If you hang around long enough, you could probably hear an alphorn and would certainly spot a Heidi playing among the half-timbered chalets.

If you guessed Switzerland you are only half right.

I am in “Little Switzerland,” the affectionate name given to New Glarus, a Swiss-settled community in Green County, Wisconsin.

More specifically I am at the New Glarus Hotel Restaurant gorging on Swiss dishes and watching a fondue demonstration—but more about that later.

New Glarus isn’t new. The town dates to 1845 when immigrants fleeing a famine started arriving from the canton of Glarus in Switzerland (the real deal) to settle the Wisconsin land that so resembled their native alpine farmland. The colony became an official village in 1901 and remains the major Swiss center of North America, welcoming Swiss immigrants, upholding Swiss traditions and celebrating Swiss heritage.

So here are a few things you might not know about New Glarus and its surroundings (in no particular order):

1. In 1905, the New Glarus area sported so many cheese factories (22 to be exact) that the village was called “the cheese Capital of the World.” Production has slowed; nevertheless Green County still claims to have the largest concentration of specialty cheese factories and award winning cheese makers in the United States. The County hosts the National Historic Cheesemaking Center and a plethora of shops selling cheese as well as restaurants serving cheese-based dishes.

2. The first woman to operate a brewery in the United States was/is Deborah Carey, who with her husband Dan, opened the New Glarus Brewing Company in 1993. The brewery rocks on today and is well worth a visit.

3. At one time over 100 cheese makers around New Glarus produced Limburger cheese and the stinky stuff

Serving Baumgartner's Limburger sandwiches.

was considered so important to the community that it was used as legal tender. Today only one Limburger plant remains and that’s in Monroe, Wisconsin. The best place to try the cheese is also in Monroe at Baumgartner’s Cheese Store and Tavern, which opened in 1931 and is considered the oldest cheese store in Wisconsin. Baumgartner’s servers it’s Limburger sandwich on rye with raw onions. Talk about aroma…well, let’s not! I much prefer the scent of fondue, which brings us back to the New Glarus Hotel Restaurant.

Built by Swiss immigrants in 1853 as a rooming house for travelers, the New Glarus Hotel Restaurant now functions primarily as a restaurant serving authentic Swiss dishes and sometimes staging Swiss-style concerts, dances and even cooking demonstrations for tourists who come by the busloads.

The following recipe comes from their fondue demo led by Chef Roland Fürst. Should you like, you can add a dash of dry mustard to the recipe and it would still be authentic. Yodel-ah-ee-OOOoooo

CHEESE FONDUE

Chef Roland Furst making fondue.

Yield: About 4 servings.

1 cup plus 1/4 cup dry white wine, divided

4 cups (about 3/4 pound) shredded Appenzeller, Gruyere or Emmentaler cheese

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1-1/2 teaspoons very finely chopped fresh garlic

1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Pinch nutmeg

About 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons Kirsch

Crusty French bread, cut into bite size cubes

Put 1 cup wine in a heavy fondue pot.

Set pot over high heat and bring wine to a gentle boil. Reduce heat so that wine simmers.

Gradually stir cheese into wine. When the cheese melts and is smooth, stir in the lemon juice, garlic, dill, pepper and nutmeg.

Combine cornstarch with remaining wine. Add to cheese and stir well. Let cook a minute or two, stirring constantly, until fondue is thick and smooth. Stir in the Kirsch.

Serve immediately with bread chunks for dipping.