Chicken Satay With Peanut Sauce

Whoever sang, “Flying high in the sky with some guy is my idea of nothing to do,” is guaranteed to change the tune after one taste of Malaysia Airlines’ satays. Served in the airline’s business and first-class sections, on Los Angeles to Kuala Lumpur flights, these appetizers are in a class all their own.

Of course, business and first-class service includes perks, but bigger seats and attentive staff are not the only lures. Food counts. While food on most airlines is just one of those things, the satays on Malaysia Airlines are just too marvelous, too marvelous for words.

A classic dish of Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, satays consist of tiny bites of marinated meat threaded on skewers and grilled. What makes Malaysia Airlines’ satays superior is the marinade for the meat and the sweet, spicy interaction of the peanut sauce served with the meat.

Passengers usually begin their meal with three beef satays and three chicken satays (along with a few chunks of cucumber). When the flight attendant asks, “May I serve you more?” the answer is always, “Yes, do it to me one more time.”

To keep up with passenger desire for more, the airline commissary makes satays in such large quantities that their recipe can’t be cut for home use. But don’t worry, be happy. I created a recipe to copy the fine flavor of the airline’s chicken satays and peanut sauce. Who could ask for anything more?

CHICKEN SATAY

Yield:  4 to 6 servings as an appetizer or 4 servings as a main dish.

1-1/2 pounds skinned, boned chicken

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

3/4 teaspoon ground coriander seeds

About 1/4 teaspoon salt

About 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Peanut sauce (recipe follows)

Cut the chicken into 3/4-inch cubes. Put cubes in a glass or other non-reactive bowl. Sprinkle sugar, cumin, coriander seeds, salt and cayenne over chicken. Add garlic, oil and lemon juice. Stir until ingredients are well mixed. Cover bowl and refrigerate 1 to 24 hours.

Before grilling: Cover about 16 bamboo skewers with cold water; let soak about 1 hour. Bring chicken to room temperature. Preheat an oven broiler or charcoal grill.

When ready to cook: Thread chicken pieces onto bamboo skewers, covering about 3 inches of the skewer with meat. Place filled skewers on a rack and broil or grill, about 4 inches from the heat source, turning with tongs, until the chicken has browned on all sides, 7 to 12 minutes.

Serve with Peanut Sauce.

PEANUT SAUCE

Yield: about 1-1/2 cups.

1 cup roasted peanuts

1 stalk lemon grass (see Notes)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 tablespoons diced onion

1-1/3 cups weak tamarind juice (see Notes)

1/3 cup granulated sugar

3/4 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1/4 teaspoon Laos powder (see Notes)

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

Blend peanuts in a blender or food processor until finely ground; set aside.

Discard the outer leaf of lemon grass and cut off and discard root end tip. With a meat mallet or hammer, hit the base of lemon grass several times to break the fibers; set lemon grass aside.

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and stir-fry until tender, about 2 minutes. Add tamarind juice, sugar, ginger, Laos powder, cayenne and salt. Stir mixture well with the hammered end of the lemon grass. Using lemon grass, stir in ground peanuts. Stirring with lemon grass, bring mixture to a boil, then immediately reduce heat so that mixture simmers. Remove lemon grass and simmer mixture, stirring often with a spoon, until the sauce thickens, 5 to 10 minutes. Taste and correct seasoning.

Notes:

Lemon grass is a woody, slender grass that imparts a subtle but pungent citrus flavor to dishes.

Tamarind is a bean-like fruit generally sold packaged in a block or as a liquid concentrate. To make tamarind juice from the block, break off about 2 tablespoons tamarind from the block, tear the tamarind into small pieces, and put pieces in a small saucepan. Cover pieces with about 1 cup hot water and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, stirring often. Pour mixture into a strainer over a mixing bowl and strain cooking liquid and as much tamarind as you can push through sieve with the back of the spoon. Put tamarind remaining in strainer back in the saucepan. Cover with water and stir well. Again strain. If necessary add enough water to tamarind juice to make 1-1/3 cups liquid.

Laos powder is dried powdered galangal, a highly aromatic rhizome greatly used in Malaysian cooking.

Bizcochitos

Diane Jenkins

Hand-kneaded, elegant and dusted with cinnamon to resemble the color of fresh clay, bizcochitos are the perfect refreshment for Native American potters Diane Jenkins and Krieg Kalavaza to serve in their San Ildefonso Pueblo studio/gallery. After all bizcochito cookies and San Ildefonso pottery have much in common.

Bizcochitos (also spelled biscochitos) are so popular that they have been declared New Mexico’s Official State Cookie. San Ildefonso pottery is revered around the world and represents the best of New Mexico’s Native American art.  Recipes for both cookies and pottery are centuries old, with each generation adding their own enhancements. And both pottery and cookies are made in somewhat the same way (metaphorically speaking, of course).

Krieg Kalavaza

To produce their famous polychrome pottery, siblings Jenkins and Kalavaza work as a team, both collecting clay for the pots, plants for paint and natural materials for firing. Jenkins hand forms the pots, which Kalavaza then refines. Both sand the pots, after which Jenkins polishes them and Kalavaza adds paints before they are fired.

To make bizcochitos, the brother/sister duo gather ingredients, mix and shape the dough by hand, adding their own refinements, before setting the cookies in the oven to bake.

The potters sent me their recipe (below), which I am truly delighted to have and to share, but in my heart of hearts (and I only tell you this), I wish they had also sent a pot.

BIZCOCHITOS

(Recipe used to bake cookies served in pottery workshops and demonstrations in the San Ildefonso Pueblo studio/gallery of Diane Jenkins and Krieg Kalavaza.)

Yield: 2 to 4 dozen cookies depending on how they are cut.

2 cups shortening (lard is used in traditional recipes)

1 cup granulated sugar, plus additional 1/4 cup sugar to coat cookies

2 teaspoons anise extract

2 egg yolks, slightly beaten

6 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup water

1 tablespoon cinnamon

Cream shortening with 1 cup sugar and anise extract; stir in egg yolks. Sift together flour, baking power and salt. Combine the two mixtures, adding water,  and knead until well blended.

Pat or roll the dough 1/3-inch thick and cut into desired shapes. (Jenkins and Kalavaza pat the dough into 2-inch rounds).  Combine 1/4 cup sugar with cinnamon and sprinkle over top of cookies.

Place cookies, cinnamon side up, on an ungreased baking sheet and bake in preheated 350°F oven until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

KRISTINE KIDD PICKS LOS ANGELES RESTAURANTS


Kristine Kidd

Kristine Kidd knows food. All aspects of food. Her many accomplishments include: owning a catering business in Los Angeles, working as a chef in Vermont, teaching cooking classes at UCLA, and writing cookbooks for Williams-Sonoma and Time-Life Inc. But that’s not all making Kristine one of America’s top food influencers. She spent 20 years as Food Editor of Bon Appétit magazine.

Although Kristine is now retired from the magazine, she is not resting on her laurels. She continues to teach, blog, lecture and write.

Her newest cookbook, Weeknights Fresh and Fast, is now available in Williams Sonoma stores, and, in March, will have broad distribution. You can also order this gem at Barnes & Noble and Amazon.com, where you can find Kristine’s other booksCookies and Biscotti, Gifts from the Kitchen (my favorite), Risotto, Thanksgiving and After Dinner.

As Kristine lives in Los Angeles and is about the most food-knowledgeable Angelino I know, I asked if she would give Sweet Leisure a list of good LA restaurants.

Of course, she did, but she cautioned that the restaurants she suggests are not necessarily the newest or trendiest, but rather her personal favorites.  In her own words:

Places I love to eat at in Los Angeles:

Huckleberry Café and Bakery

Bakery case at Huckleberry Cafe

1014 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica

310-451-2311

After shopping at the Santa Monica farmer’s market, I often meet a friend at this casual café for breakfast, brunch or lunch. Place your order at the counter for baked eggs with white beans and fire roasted tomatoes, green eggs and ham, brisket hash, or an inventive salad- all featuring farmers’ market ingredients- and then find a table. It is difficult to leave without taking home one of chef Zoe Nathan’s fresh baked fruit tarts or a wedge of the fruit topped cornmeal-ricotta cake.

Rustic Canyon

1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica

310-393-7050

In the same neighborhood as Huckleberry, and run by the same team. The décor is minimalist, but the inspired yet down-to-earth seasonal menus feature local organic ingredients. Last time I was there, I feasted on a butternut squash soup with roasted apples; Branzino with artichoke, fennel, eggplant, and salsa verde; and a sublime plum crostata. Desserts are created by Huckleberry’s pastry chef, and are as excellent as the savory dishes.

Pizzeria Mozza

641 N. Highland Ave, Hollywood

323-297-0101

Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali create astonishing pizzas with thin fully flavored crusts, and impeccable ingredients, perfectly baked in wood-fired ovens. Two favorites: egg, guanciale, escarole, and radicchio  pizza; and fennel sausage, red onion, and scallion pizza. The chicken liver bruschette is so outstanding; I always order it to start the meal.

Osteria Mozza

6602 Melrose Ave, Hollywood

323-297-0100

Another Silverton-Batali restaurant, this one specializes in stunning pasta, and creative cheese appetizers from Nancy Silverton’s mozzarella bar. The food is rich, the room dramatic. Try the burrata with leek vinaigrette and mustard breadcrumbs or burricotta with braised artichokes, pine nuts, currants and mint pesto to start, and then tagliatelle with oxtail ragu, or light as air gnocchi with duck ragu, or braised beef short rib with porcini. The food is perfectly executed, and satisfying.


The Bazaar by José Andrés

The SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills, 465 S. La Cienega

310-247-0400

The dramatic setting and theatrically presented Spanish tapas make for an entertaining evening. The menu offers both delectable traditional dishes and creative modern food. Items not to miss: sweet potato chips with yogurt, tamarind, and star anise; jamon iberico (dry cured ham made from acorn fed pigs), modern and traditional olives, salt wrinkled potatoes, not your everyday caprese; philly cheesesteak (air bread cheddar, wagyu beef). Request seating in the Red Room.

Loteria! Grill at the Farmers Market

6333 W. Third St, Fairfax district

323-465-2500

Lots of fun for a casual after-work get-together. Find authentic Mexico city style tacos, enchiladas, chilaqueas cooked in a rich mole sauce, and a colorful chiles rellenos plate at this super casual taco bar in the historic Farmers Market.

Piccolo

5 Dudley Ave, Venice

310-314-3222

The name is appropriate for this tiny, casual Italian restaurant, ½ block off the Venice Beach boardwalk. I like it for Friday night dates, and usually order the duck prosciutto for a tasty starter, followed by handcrafted tender ravioli with nettle-hazelnut filling and Parmesan-butter-sage sauce, and tagliatelle with a succulent venison and red wine ragu.

Rivera

1050 S. Flower St, Downtown

213-749-1460

Elegant and inventive pan-Latin fare, created by John Sedlar. The warm tortillas pressed with flowers and herbs are as unforgettable as they are whimsical, banana leaf- braised pork shoulder is tender and fully flavored, and the black beans complex and satisfying. The setting is as gorgeous as the food.

Bouchon Bistro

235 North Canon Dr, Beverly Hills

310-271-9910

A visit to Thomas Keller’s elegant bistro in Beverly Hills feels like an escape to Paris. The food is traditional, comforting, and prepared with exquisite care, the service is correct. For an outstanding meal try a simple mixed green salad with warm goat cheese, dressed with a classic red wine vinaigrette; or a lusty pate de champagne; followed by sautéed salmon with roasted beets, caramelized Brussels sprouts, parsnips and whole grain mustard beurre blanc. Finish the meal with a feather light ile flottante or memorable tarte au citron for dessert.

Angelini Osteria

Angelini Osteria

7313 Beverly Blvd,

323-297-0070

Dining at this small, causal spot, with excellent food, gives the impression of being in Italy. It is crowded and noisy in the evenings, and so lunch is a better bet. Fresh anchovies with artichokes and beets, the best spaghetti alla carbonara ever, and grilled branzino keep me coming back.

Mélisse

1104 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica

310-395-0881

My first choice for very special occasions. Chef Josiah Citrin’s creative French food is superb, the setting elegant but not stuffy, and the service friendly. I want to celebrate with dishes like artichoke soup with parmesan fritters and white truffles; scallops with cauliflower, lemon confit, marcona almonds and uni; Dover sole with crushed purple Peruvian potatoes, broccoli, pine nuts, and brown butter Chardonnay sauce; and black bass with kabocha squash, radicchio, and matsutake mushrooms.

A.O.C Wine Bar and Restaurant

Suzanne Goin

8022 W. Third St, Third Street district

323-653-6359

Suzanne Goin offers creative, California-French small plates, homemade charcuterie, and perfectly ripened cheeses. This is a stylish setting with great tasting food: wild salmon with beluga lentils and pancetta; duck confit, black rice, pomegranate, and walnuts; cauliflower flavored with curry and then roasted in the wood burning oven; brussels sprouts with pancetta and parsnip puree.

French Onion Soup

A loaf of bread, a jug of wine and French onion soup. Magnifique!

FRENCH ONION SOUP

Yield: 4 serving.

4 large yellow onions

2 large red onions

2 shallots

1 leek

4 tablespoons butter

Salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon paprika

Big pinch allspice

1/4 cup Cognac

About 7 cups good rich beef broth

1 bay leaf

Coarsely ground black pepper

Peel onions. Halve onions, lengthwise, and then cut, crosswise, into thin slices.

Peel shallots and cut into thin slices.

Trim root end and top green part off leek. Halve white portion, lengthwise, and then cut, crosswise, into thin slices.

Melt butter in a large soup pot. Add sliced onions, shallots and leek; with two large spoons, toss onion mixture to coat with butter.

Cook over moderate heat, tossing often, until onions begin to soften, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and sugar. Continue cooking, tossing occasionally in the beginning and more as onions start to brown, until onions caramelize and turn rich golden brown, about 1 hour.

Sprinkle thyme, paprika and allspice over onions and stir. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Pour Cognac over onions and boil until liquid almost disappears.

Add broth and bay leaf; stir gently.

Gently simmer soup until flavors are well developed, 1 to 1-1/2 hours (add a little water or more broth if liquid reduces too much).

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove bay leaf.

If not serving immediately, cool soup at room temperature, and then refrigerate in a covered container.

ONION SOUP GRATINÉED

Yield: 4 servings.

1 recipe French Onion Soup

4 to 8 toasted rounds of French baguette (recipe follows)

4 to 6 ounces shredded Gruyère cheese

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Set four individual ovenproof soup bowls or crocks on a baking sheet.

If the soup is cold reheat it. Pour hot soup into each bowl, giving each an equal amount. Top soup with one or two toast rounds (do not layer or overlap the rounds). Cover top of soup in each bowl with a generous layer of shredded cheese.

Set baking sheet in oven and bake until cheese melts and soup is bubbly around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes.

Serve immediately.

TOASTED BAGUETTE ROUNDS

Good crusty French baguette

Olive oil

Preheat oven to 325°F.

Slice baguette into rounds about 3/4-inch thick.

Brush both sides of each round with a little olive oil.  Set rounds in one layer on a baking sheet.

Place baking sheet in oven and bake, turning once, until rounds are dry, crisp and golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.

BARCELO BAVARO PALACE DELUXE

He wants golf. She wants a spa. He wants bars and buffets. She wants romantic restaurants. He wants sports. She wants shopping. He wants gambling. She wants dancing. He wants to stay within a budget. She wants comfort and style.  Both want to take the kids, but also want an adult getaway. Impossible to accommodate the he/she/family in one vacation?

Not if the couple/family heads to the new Barceló Bávaro Palace Deluxe resort (which is part of the mega-Barcelo resort complex) on Bavaro Beach in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic.

View from a suite.

Among other delights, this four-star, all-inclusive resort offers guests: 1.2 miles of extra-wide, white-sand beach (called one of the 10 best beaches in the world by National Geographic);

The beatch at Barcelo Bavaro Palace Deluxe

Bavaro Beach

6 swimming pools including several for adults only;

Couple at adult only pool.

One of the resort's adults only pool.

a kid’s water park;

Barcelo Bavaro Palace Deluxe's Kids' Water Park

Children love the kids-only water park.

a luxurious spa;

The Spa at Barcelo Bavaro Palace Deluxe

A resting room in the resort's spa.

a P. B. Dye designed 18-hole golf course;

Golf Course

10 restaurants;

French Restaurant at Barcelo Bavaro Palace Deluxe

Puppets decorate the resort's French restaurant, La Comedie.

a 24-hour casino; an open-air theatre; a shopping center; a kid’s activity center; 7 tennis courts; a fitness center and 1366 rooms (12-different room categories); PLUS sun, sand, sea and comparatively affordable prices.

With Spanish owners, and staff drawn from the Dominican Republic (over 600 staff live on property), Spanish remains the major language, but key staff speaks a bit of English, German, French and a smattering of Russian to keep up with the guests who are primarily from Europe and Canada.

Tips to enhance a stay:

Waitress in Rincon Dominicano Restaurant

The resort's Rincon Dominicano Restaurant serves local dishes.

For romance, book a suite with a hot tub on the terrace and a good ocean view.

For family fun, opt for one of the family rooms or suites around the kids’ water park.

For best service, choose “Club Premium” upgrades (provides more personalized attention and other perks).

For best food, try the local specialties at the Rincon Dominicano Restaurant.

For take-home souvenirs, buy rum, coffee and cigars.

For best bite, don’t miss the bacon wrapped plantains served at some of the breakfast buffets (recipe below).

BACON WRAPPED PLANTAINS

Breakfast Buffet

Selections from the breakfast buffet: fresh fruit, Spanish omelet, brown bread and bacon wrapped plantains with grilled pepper garnish.

(Serve as a breakfast dish or an appetizer.)

Very ripe plantains

Thickly sliced strips of bacon.

Peel plantains and cut into pieces. (The resort cuts the plantains into strips about 2-inches long and 1-inch thick.  You could also cut them into rounds.)

Wrap each piece of plantain in bacon and secure the bacon with a toothpick.

Either pan fry, broil or bake (in preheated 350°F) the plantains until the bacon is well browned and crispy.  When cooking, turn the plantains as necessary to brown all sides of the bacon.

Remove toothpicks before serving.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

STAR DISHES FOR SAG AWARDS

Wow! Attended a press event previewing the food and wine to be served at the 17th annual Screen Actors Guild (SAG) awards.

Suzanne Goin meets the press.

Spent an afternoon sipping and sampling as well as watching and photographing the food paparazzi who were sipping and sampling and watching and photographing chef Suzanne Goin and actress JoBeth Williams in Suzanne’s Los Angeles restaurant Lucques. Suzanne is caterer of choice for the awards and JoBeth represents the show committee that helped choose the menu.

JoBeth Williams

Both women agreed that cooking for the 1250 super-stars and their entourages attending the event presented some challenges, not the least of which was choosing the five menu items that were to be arranged on one plate and placed on the table before the ceremony begins. Nominees for menu items had to meet rigid criteria. According to JoBeth, the food had to be:

1. Beautiful;

2. Able to sit at room temperature for a long period of time without diminishing in flavor or appearance;

3. Easy to eat (nothing to drip on satin gowns, nothing to leave small particles in the perfectly capped, whitened teeth of presenters and acceptors);

4. Accommodating to different diets (vegetarian, low calorie, no sugar, etc. etc. etc.);  and

5. Truly tasty.

And the menu winners were:

Blood Oranges with Dates, Arugula and Parmesan

Beluga Lentils with Carrots, Pinenuts and Feta

Slow-Roasted King Salmon with Cucumbers, Yogurt and Ginger-Mint Chutney

Slow-Roasted Lamb with Chickpeas, Black Olives and Feta Salsa Verde

Fresh Baked Herbed Crostini with Parmesan, Chopped Thyme and Parsley

ARUGULA WITH BLOOD ORANGES, DATES AND PARMIGIANO REGGIANO

(Adapted from a recipe supplied by Suzanne Goin. Suzanne’s recipe calls for olive oil to dress the dish. The Blood Orange Vinaigrette recipe comes from one of Suzanne’s chefs at her Los Angeles restaurant AOC and makes a flavorful substitute for the oil alone.)

Yield: 6 servings.

4 large blood oranges

1/4 pound chunk Parmigiano Reggiano

2 ounces arugula

15 Deglet Noor dates, pitted and halved, lengthwise

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (or Blood Orange Vinaigrette, recipe follows)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cut away all peel and white pith from oranges. Cut oranges, crosswise, into thin circles; set aside.

Place the cheese, flat side down, on a cutting board. Using a chef’s knife, shave cheese into 18 large, thin slices.

Scatter 1/3 of the arugula on a large platter.

Arrange 1/3 of the oranges, dates and cheese over the arugula. Repeat layering, letting the ingredients weave together, but not pile up on one another.

Drizzle oil (or vinaigrette) over the top of ingredients and season lightly with salt and pepper.

BLOOD ORANGE VINAIGRETTE

Yield: 1 cup.

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

About 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (or enough to cover shallot)

6 tablespoons blood orange juice

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Put shallots in a small bowl. Add lemon juice to cover. Let sit 10 minutes. Stir in blood orange juice and vinegar. Slowly whisk in oil.

HERBED CROSTINI

Yield: 6 crostini.

6 slices of baguette, each 9-inches long and 1/4-inches thick

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

6 tablespoons grated Parmesan

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Brush both sides of bread with oil.

Place bread, in one layer, on a baking sheet. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon Parmesan over top of each piece of bread. Combine herbs and sprinkle top of Parmesan coated bread, dividing herb mixture evenly among the 6 slices of bread.

Set baking sheet in oven and bake until bread is golden and crispy, 7 to 10 minutes.

HOT COCOA CAKE

Of course you’ve heard of Zingerman’s. Who in the food world hasn’t? It’s been a food-lovers destination ever since Paul Saginaw and Ari Weinzweig opened the deli in Ann Arbor, Michigan, in 1982.

Today’s food outlets operating in Ann Arbor under the Zingerman’s banner include a Creamery, a Bakehouse, a Coffee Company and The Roadhouse, a popular restaurant/bar. Zingerman’s partners also make candy, publish books, cater and run food tours

With mottos that include “praise the lard,” and a company policy that celebrates bacon, Zingerman’s defies diet trends. Instead, Zingerman’s hunts the world for the best of the best, and doesn’t care a wit about calorie content—it’s not what is good for you at Zingerman’s, but what is good, flavorful and top quality that counts.

Guess you have to be there (Ann Arbor) to indulge in the full monty, but you can sample some goodies by mail order. For example, Zingerman’s fabulous Hot Cocoa Cake is available in the Ann Arbor deli and Bakehouse, by mail order, and, now, even in your own home kitchen as Zingerman’s shared the recipe below. Praise the lard!

Zingerman’s

HOT COCOA CAKE


Yield: 10 to 12 servings.

Shortening and flour to prepare cake pan

1-1/3 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons instant espresso or instant coffee crystals

2 tablespoons hot water

1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 cup butter, at room temperature

2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup sour cream

2 eggs, at room temperature

3 egg whites, at room temperature

5-1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Sifted confectioner’s sugar, optional

Grease and lightly flour two 6-cup fluted tube pans or one 10-inch Bundt pan and set aside.

Heat oven to 350°F.

Put flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. Stir to combine.

Put espresso in a small bowl. Add hot water and stir to dissolve espresso. Stir in vanilla and set aside.

Put butter in a large mixing bowl. Beat with an electric mixer on medium to high speed for 30 seconds. Gradually add sugar, beating constantly. Add sour cream and beat until well combined. Add eggs and egg whites, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Alternately add flour mixture and espresso mixture to butter mixture, beating on low speed after each addition until ingredients are just combined. Stir in chopped chocolate. Pour batter into prepared pan or pans.

Place in the preheated oven and bake until a wooden toothpick inserted near the center of the cake comes out clean, 30 to 40 minutes for the small cakes or 50 to 55 minutes for the larger cake.

Cool for 15 minutes on a wire rack. Remove from pan and set on a rack to cook completely.

If desired, sprinkle with powdered sugar before serving.

SPONGE CANDY

Kathy McCarthy has one sweet job! She makes candy. Well, not just candy. Kathy, or Cocoa as she prefers to be

Kathy McCarthy

called, makes extraordinary, super-delicious, handcrafted, chocolate-coated candy, which she sells at the Sweet Spot in the Savory Spoon Marketplace in Door County, Wisconsin.

Although Cocoa’s specialties include chocolate-drenched toffees (for which she won a blue ribbon at the Arizona state fair), caramels and a divine peanut-butter confection, to me, her pièce de résistance is sponge candy (a crunchy, melt-in-the-mouth delight also know as fairy food, sugar puffs, sea foam and honeycomb).

Cocoa says that she started making sponge candy with her mother when she was a child growing up on a mink ranch in Oshkosh, Wisconsin, and has made it happily ever after for her family’s holidays and special events. Today, she makes the candy for other folks’ special occasions as well, selling the sweet  at her chocolate boutique in the Marketplace shop and through mail order.

As generous as she is charming, Cocoa shares her family recipe below. But trust me, when it comes to Cocoa’s candy, one is never enough, so check out the Sweet Spot for more dark, delectable magic. MMmmmmmm.

SPONGE CANDY


Yield: about 1-1/2 pounds candy (about 40 pieces)

Butter to grease pan

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup dark corn syrup

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 tablespoon baking soda

About 1 pound good dark chocolate (If you are going to temper the chocolate, use a block or bar of very good chocolate, rather than chocolate chips. See note.)

Butter a 9 X 9 X 2-inch pan and set aside.

Combine sugar, corn syrup and vinegar in a large (3-quart), heavy saucepan.  Set pan over medium heat and bring mixture to a boil, stirring constantly until sugar completely dissolves. Without stirring, boil mixture until it registers 300°F on a candy thermometer. (At this stage a drizzle of the mixture will separate into brittle threads when dropped into cold water.)  Immediately remove pan from heat, add baking soda and stir quickly until well mixed (the mixture will foam).  Quickly pour mixture into the buttered pan.  Set aside at room temperature to cool completely. When cooled, break candy into chunks.

Melt chocolate (see note). Dip candy chunks in chocolate and set aside at room temperature until the chocolate is firm to the touch.

NOTE:  MELTING CHOCOLATE You can melt chocolate in a saucepan over low heat, in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, or in a microwave set on defrost, but if you are using a fine couverture chocolate, a more professional approach would be, before dipping the candy, to “temper” the chocolate (which gives it a sheen and keeps the surface of the chocolate from appearing mottled or matted).

TO TEMPER ONE POUND OF GOOD DARK CHOCOLATE:

1. Chop chocolate bar or block into chunks.

2. Put 2/3 of the chucks in the top of a double boiler set over simmering water.

3. Attach an instant-read thermometer to the side of the boiler.

4. Stirring gently with a rubber spatula, heat chocolate until it is completely melted and at a temperature ranging between 105°F and no more than 115°F.

5. Immediately remove top of boiler with melted chocolate from the heat. Dry bottom of pan. Set on heatproof surface. Add remaining unmelted 1/3 chopped chocolate to melted chocolate and stir gently, with a rubber spatula, to melt the new chocolate and drop the temperature of melted chocolate to 88°F. (If temperature drops below 84°F you can remove any unmelted chocolate chunks from the melted and set aside for another use, and then set the melted chocolate over warm water and raise its temperature to 88°F.)  Keep melted chocolate at temperature between 86°F to 88°F while dipping the candy.

Sweet Spot's Angel Food (chocolate drizzled over sponge candy)

ALBUQUERQUE

TEN THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT ALBUQUERQUE and TEN REALLY GOOD RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS

1. OLD TOWN sits in the historic heart of Albuquerque and the neighborhood (which is full of authentic Spanish Colonial buildings housing restaurants, galleries, shops and museums) is as much a city center as was when the city was founded in 1706.

2. ROUTE 66 is greatly touted in history books, songs and legends, but nowhere is the spirit of this Mother Road kept alive than in Albuquerque. The name has changed to Central Avenue, but the kicks are still available at any number of great places stretching through Albuquerque’s Downtown area and trendy Nob Hill District.  Personal favorite restaurants along the route:

66 DINER (A diner with old-fashioned décor serving usual diner fare with a NM twist—I’m talking chiles here.)

FRONTIER (A local favorite for wonderfully gooey sweet rolls and inexpensive meals.)

KELLY’S BREW PUB (The quintessential brew pub with good bar food and great handcrafted beers—you can even brew and bottle your own.)

THE GROVE CAFÉ AND MARKET (This light, bright, contemporary café/shop, open only for breakfast, brunch and lunch, focuses on organic and natural foods.)

3. CULTURAL CENTERS

The INDIAN PUEBLO CULTURAL CENTER represents the 19 Pueblos of New Mexico with informative cultural and artistic displays and, on weekends, special Native American dancing and ceremony performances. The center also houses a good gift shop and the PUEBLO HARVEST CAFÉ, serving a luscious sampling of authentic Native American dishes.

The NATIONAL HISPANIC CULTURAL CENTER showcases Hispanic culture through exhibition galleries, performing arts theatre, and the LA FONDA DEL BOSQUE restaurant (try the lunch buffet of traditional New Mexico cuisine). New to the NHCC offerings and not-to-be-missed spectacular is the 4,000 square-foot Torreon Fresco by Frederico (call to see when it’s open and plan your trip accordingly—trust me. This is a must.)

4. SANDIA PEAK TRAMWAY climbs 2.7 miles from desert floor to the 10,378-foot peak of the Sandia Mountains, offering breathtaking views of the Rio Grande Valley.

5. PETROGLYPH NATIONAL MONUMENT stretches over 17 miles and holds around 20,000 ancient images that have been etched or pecked into stone by ancestral Native Americans and early Spanish settlers. Visitors can get close up and personal views of many of the petroglyphs from various hiking trails.

6. BALLOONS have taken off, both literally and figuratively on the ABQ scene. Year-around hot-air balloon rides, an International Balloon Fiesta and the Albuquerque International Balloon Museum make Albuquerque the world’s hot-air ballooning capital of…well…of anywhere.

7. THE GREAT OUTDOORS and ABQ’s mild, high-altitude climate infused with sunshine, lures visitors as well as locals for hiking, biking, golf and other outdoor sports and pleasures.

8. MURALS by different artist decorate the city making it a veritable museum of open-air art. Most of the murals are painted on private buildings, but a handful grace public walls and were commissioned by the city and supported by tax dollars.

9. HOTEL ANDALUZ was built by NM native Conrad Hilton in 1939, and took honors as the tallest building in NM and the first to boast air conditioning. Today’s Four Diamond Hotel Andaluz still racking up the accolades, this time as the most sustainable historic hotel in the nation. It is also one of the most charming and the IN place to stay, drink and dance (tango in the lobby) as well as dine (at the hotel’s 4-star LUCIA restaurant).

10. CHILES rock. Chiles rule. Chilies dominate Albuquerque’s food scene flavoring practically everything including cookies, nuts, jams, candy and most of the dishes in most of the food outlets. Guess one could find a restaurant without chiles on the menu (but who would want to). The state’s “official question” remains, “Red or green?”  (Respond “Christmas” and you’ll get both.) Three hot places to sample chile magic:

GOLDEN CROWN PANADERIA (A bakery specializing in pizza, coffee and New Mexican baked goods including a green-chile bread. Show up early in the day for the baked goodies as they sell out quickly.)

EL PINTO AUTHENTIC NEW MEXICAN RESTAURANT (A widely popular cavernous place—seats up to 1,000 diners—with it’s own salsa and chile factory. Wash down the chile dishes with divine margaritas.)

SADIE’S OF NEW MEXICO (A perpetual “best of the city” award winner for the restaurant as well as for a variety of individual popular New Mexican dishes.) Although he wouldn’t divulge the official recipe, Executive chef Brian Stafford gave the following as a reasonable facsimile for the prize-winning Chile con Queso served at Sadie’s:

CHILE CON QUESO

Yield: About one quart. (The recipe can be halved.)

8 ounces butter

1 cup diced onion

1 cup diced tomato

1 cup diced green chile  (can used Hatch select canned diced green chile, well drained)

1 pound or more diced or shredded American cheese or a mixture of American and Swiss. (“Kraft sliced singles work,” says Brian)

Melt butter. Add onion, tomato and chile and gently sauté until onions are translucent and falling apart, 10 to 15 minutes (do not brown the onions). Add cheese, a little at a time, stirring constantly until mixture is smooth and creamy.  Serve hot with fresh tostados.

For more information about  Albuquerque see: www.itsatrip.org.


ROAST TURKEY AND BUTTERMILK PIE

If you’re apprehensive about preparing a big Thanksgiving meal, just think of Stephen Flowers and by comparison your cooking will seem easy as pie.

Flowers cooks for passengers riding the historic Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad through the Rocky Mountains between Chama, New Mexico and Antonito, Colorado.

The steam engine, narrow-gauge train rides include a lunch stop at Osier Station, a secluded outpost in the middle of the mountains. Flowers is Osier’s chef and everyday that the trains run (from the end of May to mid October), he roasts six to twelve 25-pound turkeys and bakes 15 to 20 pies—and that’s in addition to preparing a variety of soups, salads, vegetables, breads and other dishes to please several hundred diners.

Chef Stephen Flowers

This cheerful chef says that he has two secrets to pulling off a made-from-scratch Thanksgiving feast day after day.

“One secret is that we aren’t so focused on presentation,” says Flowers who serves buffet style,  “so we cook the turkeys breast-side down in about two inches of water. We cook them slowly, about 10 to 12 hours at 275°F, and then we remove the meat from the bone to serve. The turkey is always moist and tender.

“The second secret is our recipe for Southern

Pie and railroad fans

buttermilk pie. We have one basic recipe that we can change with only a few ingredient switches or additions. These minor changes allows us to make a wide variety of different flavored pies each day.”

For those who want to copy Flowers, here’s his base recipe with a few variation suggestions, but the recipe is so adaptable, cooks can get creative and season to suit their own taste.

SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK PIE

1-1/3 cups sugar

1/3 cup flour

3 eggs

1 cup buttermilk

1/3 cup melted butter

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Dash salt

1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell

Ground cinnamon

Ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350°.

Mix sugar and flour and set aside.

Put eggs in a medium size mixing bowl and beat just to combine yolks and whites. Add buttermilk, butter, lemon juice, salt and sugar-flour mixture. Beat just to combine ingredients; do not over mix.

Pour mixture into pie shell. Lightly sprinkle cinnamon and nutmeg over top.

Bake at 350°F for until set, about 45 minutes.

VARIATIONS

PINEAPPLE BUTTERMILK PIE

Add drained crushed pineapple to base mixture.

COCONUT BUTTERMILK PIE

Add shredded coconut and a touch of coconut flavoring to base mixture. (Do not top with cinnamon and nutmeg.)

Coconut Buttermilk Pie