Summer Magic in the Farmers Market

Almost every city has a farmer’s market, but best of them all has to be the Dane County Farmer’s Market in Madison,Wisconsin.

Held outdoors, rain or shine, every Wednesday and Saturday from May to November (and indoors, on Saturdays, in winter), the market draws the most crowds on summer Saturdays when vendors set up about 160 booths around four long blocks surrounding Wisconsin’s majestic State Capital building.

If it were made for a movie, the Madison market couldn’t be more perfect.

Locals show up when the market opens at 6 a.m., chefs come around 7 a.m., tourists join the crowd at 10 a.m. and students drag themselves out of bed getting to the market about an hour before it closes at 2 p.m. The array creates a charming cast of thousands who stroll counterclockwise around the booths, interacting as if they were attending one big happy neighborhood party. Street musicians, laughing children and picnickers lounging on the capital’s green grounds add to the Midwest dream scene, but it is the vendors and their products that play starring roles.

Wisconsin farmers man the booths selling their own homegrown seasonal produce and farm-related products (flowers, cheese, honey, maple syrup, jams, breads, etc.). Although everything for sale is of such high quality as to make one want to move to Madison and become a dedicated locavore, in mid-summer, particularly rave reviews go to the pick of the peak produce: tomatoes, cucumbers and green peppers.

TWO BLOCKBUSTER WAYS TO USE THE BOUNTY

GAZPACHO

Yield: 6 servings.

2 large ripe tomatoes, trimmed and cut into large chunks

4 cups tomato juice

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into large chunks

1 large green pepper, trimmed and cut into large chunks

1 small onion, peeled and quartered

1 large clove garlic, peeled and put through a press

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

Celery salt

Salt

Pepper

Ground cumin (optional)

Croutons, for serving

Working in small batches, put tomatoes in the jar of a blender. Add a little tomato juice and blend until finely chopped, but not pureed. Transfer blended mixture to a large bowl. Repeat blending with cucumber, green pepper and onion. Add any remaining tomato juice, garlic, oil and vinegar to blended mixture in bowl. Sprinkle lightly with celery salt, salt and pepper. Add a little cumin if desired. Stir and taste. Correct seasoning. Refrigerate in a covered container until you are ready to serve. Serve chilled soup with croutons.

GREEK SALAD

Yield: 6 servings.

4 large ripe tomatoes

2 slender cucumbers

2 green peppers

4 scallions

About 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

About 1/3 cup pitted kalamata olives

1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 large clove garlic, peeled

Trim tomatoes and cut into bite-size chunks.

Trim ends from cucumbers. (If the cucumber skin is tough, peel it. Young slender cucumbers do not need peeling.) Halve cucumbers and remove seeds. Cut cucumbers into bite-size chunks.

Trim peppers and cut into bite-size chunks.

Trim scallions and cut white part into 1/4-inch pieces.

Put all cut vegetables in a large bowl.

Add feta and olives. Sprinkle with oregano. Toss lightly.

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Meanwhile make dressing: Combine olive oil, lemon juice and salt in a small jar. Cut garlic into slivers and add. Set dressing aside until ready to serve.

Just before serving, remove garlic and pour dressing over vegetables. Toss lightly.

Serve.

GREAT GRILL

Although it is self-designated “the smallest town on earth, ” Durbuy

From the center of Durbuy, Belgium

is large enough to have a restaurant serving what my traveling companions claim is one of the biggest taste treats in all of Belgium. Considering the nature of our trip, this is super-size praise for any size town.

I was traveling with four fellow food writers through Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Belgium, enjoying a luscious sneak preview of the up-and-coming Belgian 2012 Year of Gastronomy.

Durboyse beer truck Susan Manlin Katzman

Local beer---good accompaniment to local food.

The day we landed in Durbuy for lunch (day three of our trip), we had already devoured a huge breakfast at the Auberge du Sabotier in Awenne (our previous night’s stop), followed by a generous beer and charcuterie tasting in Rochefort.

By the time we settled into Le Victoria Restaurant and Grill, I had so overindulged that I could only manage to order a small salad. My colleagues had more fortitude; they ordered grilled chicken.

Le Victoria is a pretty place with several dining areas. We chose an indoor table, near the open grill, and from my seat, I could hear the sizzle when chef Koen Timmerman put the chickens on to cook. Lured by the sound and scent, I stood to watch.

Koen Timmerman at Le Victoria Restaurant and Grill/Susan Manlin Katzman

Koen Timmerman grilling chicken at Le Victoria's open grill.

One half chicken constituted an order and Koen grilled the halves, over a medium high flame, basting and turning them often, until the skins were nicely browned and crispy. He then transferred the halves to a large bowl, tossed them for a few moments in what he called a “marinade.” and sent them to the table hot, fragrant and chin-dripping juicy. The whole process took about 20 minutes.

My colleagues raved. They raved after the first bite. They raved when they finished eating. They raved the following day. And they raved at the end of the trip when asked to remember their favorite meal.

They raved so much, that as soon as I returned home, I adapted Koen’s recipe (which he had given to me in restaurant proportions and European measurements), and made the chicken for a casual dinner party. My guests raved. My husband raved. Chances are you’ll rave too.

GRILLED CHICKEN

(Adapted from a recipe from Koen Timmerman. Le Victoria Restaurant and Grill)

Yield: 4 large servings.

2 frying chickens, halved

Basting ingredients:

1/2 cup olive oil

1-1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1/2 bay leaf

Finishing ingredients “marinade”:

1/3 cup butter or margarine

1-1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

3/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Put basting ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until well combined; set aside.

Melt butter in a small saucepan. Add remaining finishing ingredients and stir well. Set aside. If necessary reheat mixture to melt butter before using.

Set chicken halves on a grill over hot coals. Grill, brushing often with basting mixture and turning as necessary, until halves are cooked through, but not dry, and skin is well browned and crispy.

Transfer chicken from the grill to a large dish. Pour finishing mixture over chicken and turn halves over several times to coat with mixture. Serve immediately.

¶ Posted 29 July 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ENTREES § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments (1) ° Tagged: Belgium, chicken, Durbuy, grill, Le Victoria Restaurant

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT IN BANGKOK

Som Tam (spicy papaya salad)

Granted, I enjoy hyperbole, but when it comes to Bangkok’s food scene, I can’t find an exageration to do it justice. Bangkok is bursting with fabulous food. North, south, east, west, up, down, all around, Bangkok is stacked, jam-packed, overloaded and overflowing with good places to eat. The choices are nothing short of overwhelming.

Pad Thai (fried rice noodles)

Kai Med Ma Muang (stir-fried chicken with cashews)

As knowing where to begin exploring the feast is a task beyond the average tourist, I asked the lovely Vimolpatra Tunganaga for help.

Vimolpatra lives in Bangkok, comes from a Thai restaurant family and works for The Crown Property Bureau, the agency responsible for managing the personal wealth of the King of Thailand and his immediate family, so she knows the ins and outs of all things Bangkok, particularly its food.

Vimolpatra suggests the following three restaurant chains, because, she says, each has multiple locations, is reasonably priced and serves high-quality Thai (and fusion) foods that are popular with both Thais and faràngs (“foreigners”).

Three Thai Appetizer by Susan Manlin Katzman

Popular Thai appetizers: shrimp cakes, spring rolls and satay.

KALPAPRUEK

This independently owned chain has several branches with the three most popular being:

the original Kalpapruek Restaurant Silom: 27, Pramuan Rd., Suriyawong, Bang Rak;

and

Kalpapruek on First, on the 1^st floor of the Emporium shopping complex;

and

Ghang Keow Wan (green curry)

Ging Kalpapruek in the Siam Paragon shopping center.

GREYHOUND CAFÉ

Tourist can find this popular restaurant in eight different locations including:

the original on the second floor of the Emporium shopping complex;

at the Siam Paragon shopping center;

and on the ground floor of the Siam Centre.

Khao Neow Ma Muong (coconut sticky rice with mango)

SEEFAH RESTAURANT

One of the oldest restaurants in Bangkok, Seefah boasts about 20 branches that are still family owned and operated.

A good choice for tourists is one of the earliest Seefah’s at the Siam location, No. 434-440, Siam Square, Soi 9, Rama 1 Rd.

Recipes:

PAD THAI

CHICKEN SATAY

¶ Posted 19 July 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

Croque Madame

The Grove Café & Market in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is not your usual food outlet. Owned and operated by

Chef Jason Greene

husband and wife team, Jason and Lauren Greene, the property is part restaurant, part coffee house (great espresso) and part shop (selling artisan food products, culinary gifts, table-top items and books). It is open only part of the day (breakfast and lunch) and part of the week (closed on Monday).

Even the Café menu breaks with tradition. In a city where chiles dominate and food specialties lean to the Native American and Hispanic, The Grove’s food inclines towards the French. But only part of the menu wears French names, and even that part deviates from traditional classics, as Chef Jason likes to add personal twists to his repertoire.

All and all, the sum of The Grove’s parts equals a whole lot to admire, not the least being wholesome food (based on locally grown, organic and natural ingredients) that is wholeheartedly delicious. Perfect example: The Grove Café’s Croque Madame.

CROQUE MADAME

Yield: 1 serving.

1 large slice whole-wheat sourdough bread

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Black pepper aioli (recipe follows)

3 thin slices Black Forest ham

3 thin slices heirloom tomatoes

1 ounce shredded Cheddar cheese

3 thin slices French Gruyere cheese

1 egg

Chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Brush bread with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Set in oven until lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Let cool.

Spread a thin layer of black pepper aioli on one side of toasted bread. Add slices of ham. Top with tomato slices. Lightly salt and pepper tomato. Sprinkle shredded Cheddar over tomatoes and top with slices of Gruyere. Set sandwich in oven until cheese melts, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, put a little olive oil in a small skillet, set skillet over medium heat and fry egg, sunny side up.

Remove sandwich from oven. Cut sandwich in half and stack one half over the other. Top with egg. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

The Grove Cafe&Market by Susan Manlin Katzman

The Grove is located at 600 Central Ave

BLACK PEPPER AIOLI

Yield: 1 cup.

1 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon whole-grain mustard

1 garlic clove, peeled and minced

Combine all ingredients.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

¶ Posted 12 July 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BRUNCH § CHEESE § CONDIMENTS § ENTREES § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § SANDWICHES ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Albuquerque, Croque Madame, sandwich, The Grove Cafe & Market

500 SIPS OF SUMMER

Summertime,

And the sippin’ is easy.

Bars are jumpin’

And the patrons are high.

The menu’s rich.

And the cocktails’ good lookin.’

So I’m thinking maybe

You’d like to give some a try.

ROYAL DREAM

It takes a dictionary’s worth of adjectives to describe the Hotel Danieli, and all of them mean magnificent. In addition to architectural glory, sumptuous décor and luxurious service, this once-upon-a-time palace turned hotel could have the best location of any property in Italy. The ground floor opens to the Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice’s principal waterfront promenade. And the top floor holds the Ristorante Terrazza Danieli offering an unparalleled panoramic view of the Grand Canal and Adriatic sea. Nothing short of Champagne is good enough for the Danieli’s specialty cocktail, but as if Champagne alone is no match for the glory of the surroundings, the Danieli decorates the drink with fresh strawberries and a splash of cherry flavored liqueur.

ROYAL DREAM

Yield: 1 cocktail

3 large ripe strawberries, hulled

1 teaspoon sugar

1 ice cube

2 ounces Kirsch (cherry brandy)

Chilled Champagne

1/2 strawberry for garnish

Sprinkle strawberries with sugar and mash; set aside 5 minutes. Put strawberry mixture and ice cube in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain puree into a Champagne flute. Add Kirsch and fill glass with Champagne. Stir lightly with a spoon and serve immediately.

BLUE DREAM

Dolce La Hulpe Brussels bills itself as a hotel, resort and conference destination serving both business and leisure travelers. Located in the midst of a lush forest on the outskirts of Brussels, the property’s contemporary architecture and minimalist décor adds sleek sophistication to the nature-packed setting. In addition to 265 guest rooms and suites, extensive conference facilities, several restaurants and full-service spa, the center sports two great bars serving smashing cocktails, many of which have won top awards in national and international cocktail contests. Top winner, the Blue Dream, scores points for taste as well as beauty.

BLUE DREAM

Yield: one serving.

1 ounce dry French vermouth

1/2 ounce banana liqueur

1/2 ounce Blue Curacao

1-1/2 teaspoon Marie Brizard Manzanita green apple liqueur

1-1/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Ice

1 lychee for garnish

1 vanilla bean for garnish

Put all ingredients except the garnish in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well. Strain into a martini glass. Cut lychee to resemble a flower. Garnish drink with the lychee “flower” attaching the vanilla bean as a stem.

GATUN PUNCH

Perhaps building the Panama Canal was man’s most arduous task. Blood, sweat and tears marked construction where upwards of 25,000 people died, fortunes were lost and disasters lurked around every bend. It’s hard to imagine the turmoil when transiting the canal today, especially if the crossing is aboard a luxurious, six-star, Crystal Cruises ship. Life with Crystal Cruises is as good as it gets. All that’s required of passengers taking the short cut from the Pacific to the Atlantic is that they relax and enjoy. Crystal doesn’t pull punches when it comes to passengers’ pleasure, that is unless the punch was created for the occasion of the ship entering the Gatun Locks (the locks closest to the Canal’s Atlantic side). Cheers!

GATUN PUNCH

Yield: one serving.

2 ounces fresh orange juice

2 ounces pineapple juice

1 ounce sour mix

Dash grenadine

Ice

2 ounces rum

Cherry for garnish

Orange slice for garnish

Put orange juice, pineapple juice, sour mix and grenadine in a 12-ounce hurricane glass. Stir. Fill glass with ice. Float rum on top. Garnish with cherry and orange slice.

¶ Posted 27 June 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § COCKTAILS § CRUISING § DRINKS § RECIPES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Champagne, Crystal Cruises, Dolce La Hulpe Brussels, Hotel Danieli, Panama Canal, Specialty cocktails

Crowd-Pleasing Barbecue Beef Brisket

WHO: everyone, anyone

WHAT: barbecue

WHEN: summer

WHERE: backyard

WHY: great food, good times

HOW: keep it easy by preparing some dishes ahead, buying some and grilling only quick-cooking meats such as hot dogs, bratwurst and other sausages.

BARBECUE BEEF BRISKET

Yield: 10 to 12 servings.

1 (5 to 6 pounds) beef brisket, well trimmed

1-1/2 cups chili sauce

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup ketchup

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons hot-pepper sauce

2 (12 ounces each) beers

2 tablespoons liquid smoke

1 cup barbecue sauce (optional)

Hamburger buns

Put brisket in a roasting pan. Combine chili sauce, sugar, ketchup, Worcestershire, hot-pepper sauce, beer and liquid smoke in a medium-size mixing bowl; stir until sugar dissolves. Pour mixture over beef. Cover pan, refrigerate and let beef marinate several hours to overnight, turning occasionally. Set pan in a preheated 300°F oven and roast until beef easily pulls apart in shreds, about 4 hours.

Remove pan from oven. Remove beef from pan. Drain sauce in pan into a 3-quart saucepan. Skim fat from sauce. Set saucepan over high heat and bring sauce to a boil. Boil until sauce is reduced to 3 cups. Taste sauce and, if desired, add 1 cup commercial barbecue sauce.

While sauce reduces, cut all fat from beef (discard fat). Pull beef into shreds with a fork.

Mix beef shreds and with sauce.

You can serve the beef immediately, or you can cool the beef at room temperature and refrigerated it in a covered container for several days. It also freezes well (thaw before reheating).

Re-heat in covered roasting pan, in a 350°F oven until hot.

Serve beef hot on hamburger buns.

¶ Posted 20 June 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ENTERTAINING § ENTREES ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: barbecue, beef, summer party

Coffee Rub Seasoning Mix

Chef Jim Leonardo

So my favorite winter recipe is turning out to work magic on summer grills.

I’m talking about a coffee rub recipe from Jim Leonardo, chef of Vinology, the spiffy wine-bar and restaurant in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Chef Leonardo uses the rub to season bison sliders that he puts on Vinology’s late-night menu and serves at receptions and parties that Vinology caters. Topped with an onion marmalade and boursin spread, the sliders are nothing short of fabulous (you can find the full recipe in an article that I wrote for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch if you click HERE ). Take away the toppings and the sliders would still be terrific, thanks to the coffee rub.

Last winter, I used the seasoning to perk up stews and slow-cooking roasts (both pork and beef) and I gamely slathered it on game.

This summer, when unusually hot weather provides grounds for not cooking indoors, I’ve use the coffee seasoning to beef up the flavor of hamburgers, steaks and ribs cooked on the outdoor grill. Trust me, the coffee seasoning is no grind to make and renders grilled beef, pork and other fatty meats pig-out delicious!

COFFEE RUB SEASONING MIX

Yield: about 1-1/2 cups.

1/2 cup finely ground decaffeinated dark-roast coffee

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 tablespoons granulated garlic

2 tablespoons granulated onion

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 cup salt

Combine all ingredients and store , at room temperature, in an airtight container.

¶ Posted 08 June 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § CONDIMENTS § ENTREES § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: COFFEE, grills, seasoning, Vinology

Where to Eat in Ann Arbor, Michigan

Kim Bayer

Kim Bayer knows Ann Arbor’s food from the ground up, literally. She is a freelance writer, culinary researcher and has a little consulting business doing CSA Matchmaking, helping people find the CSA farm share that best matches their needs.

(As you probably know, but I didn’t, CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. It’s like a subscription to a farm, where members receive food directly from farmers and also share the farmer’s risk by paying in advance for a portion of the farmer’s crop. Pretty cool.)

In addition Kim serves as president of Slow Food Huron Valley, an organization responsible for energizing the area’s “good food” movement and hosting food-focused events such as the annual HomeGrown Festival, Pie Lovers Unite! and Local Food Summit. Kim also volunteers at the Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive (utilizing the master’s degree she earned in Library Science at the University of Michigan).

In her free time Kim blogs (check out The Farmer’s Marketer); hosts radio shows; and works on a book showcasing Ann Arbor food.

Whew! It’s a wonder she has time to eat—but she does and when asked to name her 10 favorite Ann Arbor places to eat, she found the time to generously comply.

As you can imagine, Kim is partial to the pure, organic, sustainable, and downright delicious foods grown and produced in her local area. Here, in her own words are the Ann Arbor food outlets that please her:

ANN ARBOR FARMERS’ MARKET My number one place for food in Ann Arbor is our amazing year-round Farmers’ Market. With over 120 vendors (and a waiting list of 100 more), this historic 90-year-old market takes place weekly on Saturdays between the cobblestone streets of the Kerrytown historic district. From April through December the market also runs on Wednesdays. And this summer it’s testing out a nighttime market on Wednesday evenings starting in June! With all the beautiful seasonal produce, along with eggs, meat, cheese, condiments and bread, it’s not really necessary to go anywhere else for food supplies.

Some special items to look for at the Market include: Frog Holler Organic Farm’s famous salad mix with herbs and flower petals; Cecilia Mercante’s buttery pastries and authentic French macarons; Thomas’ Creamery organic yogurt and ice cream; Snow’s maple syrup; Garden Works pea shoots; Tasty Bakery’s gluten-free chocolate chip cookies; Archie Jennings’ heirloom, organic grains and stone-ground cornmeals; and The Folktory’s Chai Latte Muffins.

And for a quick meal you can eat right there, check out some great food carts: Pilar’s serves handmade Ecuadoran tamales, the Flint Creperie has nice made-to-order savory and sweet crepes, and EAT is a great place to get a Korean bbq sandwich with some delicious Brinery kimchi on top. Or, go inside and pull up a chair for some of Monahan’s seafood chowder of the day. The options are legion!

Brandon Johns

GRANGE KITCHEN AND BAR The first restaurant in town to source 95% of its food from great local farms, Grange Kitchen and Bar is at the top of my list for dinner – especially with out of town guests who have yet to experience seasonal “farm-to-fork” dining. I swoon for the roasted chicken with crispy skin and for the pillowy gnocchi with ramps. Anything with pork is sure to be wonderful. Don’t miss the week of springtime dinners featuring morels! I’m a big fan of happy hour in the cozy upstairs bar at Grange. From 5-7pm Monday-Friday all artisan drinks (including their fabulous “bacon” Manhattan) and all bar menu items (like fried green tomatoes served in the summertime with bacon jam) are $2 off. Are you sensing a porcine theme? See if you can catch a glimpse of the pig tattooed on the forearm of Chef/Owner Brandon Johns.

ZINGERMAN’S DELI AND ROADHOUSE You can’t say you’ve been in Ann Arbor until you’ve been to ZINGERMAN’S DELI and had a #2 Reuben sandwich that is what all other Rueben sandwiches wish they could be when they die and go to heaven. The corned beef is excellent, but be sure to order an extra dose of their super yummy homemade Russian dressing to go with. You might think $15 is expensive for a sandwich, but not only is it the best sandwich you’ve ever eaten, it’s also so big there are at least 2 meals in that sandwich. Although the friendly and frenetic energy at the Deli is great (and it’s just across the street from the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market), locals know that if you don’t want to stand in a line that snakes around the block on Saturday mornings, you should call and order ahead.

ZINGERMAN’S ROADHOUSE is also a key Ann Arbor experience featuring some of the best truly American food (smoky barbecue, great crabcakes, famous mac and cheese, fresh oysters) and the most excellent customer service you’re likely to experience anywhere. Much of the seasonal, heirloom produce comes from their own Cornman Farms. I’m in love with the fries at the Roadhouse.The sweet potato fries are great, but the handcut regular fries are worth a trip on their own. Anything with BBQ in the name is sure to be delicious – and is smoked in the big wood-fired drum smokers out back. My favorite is to get the pulled pork with *all* the different sauces on the side.

SILVIO’S ORGANIC PIZZA Although the location in a tiny pedestrian mall off North University is obscure and student-dominated, a meal at Silvio’s is reminiscent of a home-cooked meal with the Italian aunt and uncle you wish you had. With a focus on local and organic (as well as many gluten-free options), Silvio calls his food “cucina tradizionale.” Whether you order the ever popular thin-crust pizza or creamy polenta or handmade pasta, a meal at Silvio’s is home-style cooking as warm as a double kiss on the cheek. The appetizers are a great way to start – I love the crispy, cheesy arancini (basically fried risotto cakes) and the fresh-tasting grilled vegetable platter. I’m especially enamored of the fact that at Silvio’s they make their own pastas. Don’t miss the mushroom ravioli. And the manicotti is delicious. If polenta is on the menu, order it; it’s the creamiest polenta I’ve ever tasted. In terms of pizza, the truffle pizza with smoked mozzarella is their biggest seller, but my favorite is the potato pizza with gorgonzola and rosemary. Or maybe it’s the zucchini and feta pizza. And now they serve wine and beer too!

CAFE VERDE Cafe Verde next to the People’s Food Co-op used to be a super low-key place to hang out with my laptop or with a friend, but these days it’s always humming. And at lunchtime it’s positively packed. Not only is their food inexpensive and delicious, it’s also good for you. All their coffee is fair trade, their dairy products are organic, and the to-go cups are compostable. The extensive Cafe Verde salad bar (and hot bar with soup) is the freshest and best in town. One of my favorite lunches is a bowl of their chicken soup that comes with a slice of bread and butter.

EASTERN ACCENTS Eastern Accents on Fourth Ave. is one of my favorite spots downtown to stop for a snack and to catch my breath in the middle of a busy day. Usually quiet and serene, it’s a good place to meet a friend for a cup of tea. My daughter calls this place the “Asian Bakery” because of their unique selection of house-made steamed and baked Chinese buns, pastries and desserts. When she was younger we would sometimes stop in for a special treat on the way to school – at 7:30am they are taking warm stuffed veggie buns and egg tarts out of the oven. Delicious with a cup of chai tea either morning or afternoon. They also have a small menu of stir-fried items, house made soups, and be-bim-bop for a satisfying lunch.

BEWON Ann Arbor is fortunate that many of the cuisines of the world are represented here, including Ethiopian, Thai, Salvadoran, and Japanese, to name a few. But perhaps the most numerous of the ethnic eateries, with more than a dozen, are the Korean restaurants. One of the best is Bewon, in the northeast part of town. For starters, their panchen (little shared dishes sent out in advance of the meal) are superior. Including mild sweet and sour pickled radish, tender fried rice cakes, savory seaweed salad, and soy braised potatoes along with the ubiquitous kimchi, these 5 little dishes alone would be sufficient for a tasty meal. But really you don’t want to stop there.

So deliciously spicy and warming on a cold gray Michigan day, I love going out for Korean food in the wintertime. One standard that I frequently crave is a fiery soup based on the Korean national dish: Kimchi Stew. At Bewon, the arrival of this dish envelopes you in a fragrant cloud of steam created by the furious boiling of the thick stew in its black stone bowl. Red like the winter sun and filled with pungent, spicy cabbage, mild tofu and slices of pork, it’s served with a side of unusual (but tasty) black rice. I love how it warms you from the inside out.

WASHTENAW DAIRY Although it’s a bit more seasonal than others, the 75 year old Washtenaw Dairy is a local institution worth seeking out. Located in the picturesque Old West Side historic district, the WD (as it’s known to residents) is a neighborhood gathering place on warm summer evenings when people line up to choose among more than 50 flavors of ice cream. It’s a happy sight to walk up in the twilight and see dozens of families and groups of friends enjoying enormous ice cream cones. A throwback to an earlier time, the WD is also a gathering place mornings when a large group of octogenarians holds its regular kaffeeklatsch around formica tables. In addition to the ice cream, Washtenaw Dairy is known for its crispy cake-style donuts that start coming out of the fryer at 6:30am.

SUPPERCLUBS, BREAKFAST SALON, and GOURMET FOOD CARTS A final and quintessential Ann Arbor experience may require a little bit of advance planning, but is well worth the trouble. Search out one of a number of “secret” and not-so-secret dining experiences including: “clandestine dining” with the BONA SERA SUPPERCLUB and the pop-up restaurant at SATURDAYS AT THE JEFF , along with the SELMA CAFE, a local food breakfast salon hosted in a private home, and the new MARK’S CARTS, seven gourmet food carts in one downtown location.

¶ Posted 20 May 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ANN ARBOR § MICHIGAN § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Ann Arbor, Bewon, Bona Sera Supperclub, Cafe Verde, Eastern Accents, Farmer's Market, Grange, Mark's Carts Zingerman's, Michigan, Saturdays at the Jeff, Selma Cafe, Silvio's, Wastenaw Dairy

CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES

Although he was not the first European to discover Fiji (Abel Tasman was in 1642), Captain James Cook is literally and figuratively credited as the first to put the archipelago on the world’s radar (such as the radar was in 1774). Therefore I thought it super symbolic to begin my exploration of Fiji on a Captain Cook cruise.

Not that I expected the contemporary cruise to channel the namesake’s adventure. At least I hoped it wouldn’t.

I was certain that with 75 cabins, a swimming pool, fitness center, two lounges, tiny spa, well-stocked bar and graceful dining room, my cruise ship, the MV Reef Endeavour, would have more comfort than the HMS Endeavour, the navel ship Cook commanded on his first voyage to the area.

MV Reef Endeavour

Also the original Captain Cook described Fijians as ferocious cannibals, and, of course, I was eager not to follow in his footsteps and run into an old-timer who relished historical tradition.

Not to worry on either account.

As its captain Brian Larcombe is fond of saying, “The Reef Endeavour is a 3-1/2 star ship offering a 5-star experience.” Although the ship showed a bit of wear, it was perfectly comfortable and the cruise was terrific, as the smallish ship took us to remote reefs, shallow bays and tiny islands inaccessible to larger ships.

Manava Cay, a Reef Endeavour stop.

As to the Fijians, as if to overcompensate for the bad cannibal rap, they were all exceedingly friendly, warm and welcoming (I am sure Kava had a lot to do with it, but more about Kava later).

Reaching the ship was the most difficult part of the journey. I left LAX with fellow travel writers on a Thursday night at 11:30 p.m. flying Air Pacific for 10-1/2 hours and landing at Nadi International Airport (on Viti Levu, the largest of the 330 Fiji islands and the gateway for air travelers) on a Saturday morning. You will note that Friday disappeared. Losing a day is disconcerting under any circumstances, but losing a day in gorgeous Fiji is almost unbearable. Blame it on crossing the International Date Line. Everyone said you’ll make up a day on the way home. But I ask you, would you rather have an extra day in paradise or sitting on a plane returning from a heavenly trip? No contest.

From Nadi, we jumped on a tiny Pacific Sun plane for an hour’s flight over emerald-colored islands and sapphire-tinted water to Matei Airport (recently upgraded from a gravel runway to a paved one—yippee) on Taveuni, the fourth largest island in the archipelago and so lush and green it is known as the Garden Island.

Flying over Fiji by Susan Manlin Katzman

View from a window of a Pacific Sun flight.

We were picked up in a van, driven to a small beach, where we took a glass bottom boat to the Reef Endeavor and settled into cabins.

Suite bedroom on MV Reef Endeavour by Susan Manlin Katzman

Nicest cabin (not mine) on the Reef Endeavour, a suite with a bedroom and attached sitting room.

From then on it was smooth sailing. We cruised making frequent excursions, reaching shore by glass-bottom boat and traveling through paved as well as unpaved roads on an open-air bus.

We drove to the Bouma National Heritage Park’s waterfall for swimming and a picnic

And joined locals for a service at the Wairiki Catholic Church on Taveuni.

We stopped at the International Date Line (or where it used to be) for a photo op.

At the International Date Line in Taveuni by Susan Manlin Katzman

Standing between today and tomorrow.

And visited a Village for a dinner feast.

Kava welcoming ceremony by Susan Manlin Katzman

Kava welcoming ceremony at Naselesele Village

Now I’ll tell you about Kava

Kava, a drink the color of the Mississippi after a mudslide, is narcotic, not alcoholic, and said by Wikipedia to have “sedative” and “anesthetic” properties. It is the ceremonial drink of Fiji, and guests to villages are expected to bring gifts of Kava root and participate in Kava-drinking ceremonies.

On board we drank, slept, had massages, read, attended lectures, danced, mingled, took the glass bottom boat for snorkeling and diving, and watched the ever-changing scenery as we cruised by various islands.

We picked up new words, such as BULA, the most commonly heard word on the islands with a variety of meanings ranging from “good morning” to “have a wonderful happy life.”

Ate the freshest of all possible seafood.

Prawns served on the Reef Endeavour

And learned that Fiji Women dress modestly with knees and top of shoulders covered. Women do not wear pants. Visitors are expected to dress similarly in villages and frequently don sulus (sarongs) to meet the modesty requirements.

Women wear sulus made of colorful fabrics.

All too soon, the cruise was over leaving us with not only great memories, but also new friends of fellow passengers (mostly from Australia and New Zealand), sunburns, seashells and some super recipes.

Which brings me to a particularly delicious rice and fettuccini stuffed pumpkin. I first sampled the pumpkin at a village lovo dinner. As is the tradition, dishes at a lovo feast are wrapped in foil and native plant leaves and buried to bake in an earth-covered “oven.”

Although villagers cooked the pumpkin, the recipe came from the Reef Endeavour’s hospitality manager, Florian Haber. Florian said that the dish could be baked in a regular oven as well as in an earth oven and that although pumpkins growing on Fiji differ from those in the United States, any edible pumpkin would work in the recipe.

Florian Haber serving Stuffed Pumpkin

STUFFED PUMPKIN

How to make rice and fettuccini stuffed pumpkin according to Florian Haber:

Get a smallish pumpkin and cut a star-shaped a hole in the top, but save the top as you’ll want to bake the pumpkin with the top on. Hollow the pumpkin, removing all seeds and fibers.

Combine an equal amount (enough to almost fill the pumpkin) of cooked rice and cooked fettuccini (halve fettuccini strips). To boost flavor, add some cooked diced vegetables, such as cauliflower, red bell pepper, carrots and corn. Stir gently to combine ingredients. Put half of the mixture in the pumpkin. Pour a generous amount of coconut cream and dairy cream over mixture in pumpkin and stir gently to distribute the liquid. Add the remaining mixture to pumpkin and again pour in equal amounts of cream and coconut cream; stir gently. (The pumpkin should be filled to the top and ingredients should be quite moist but not soggy.)

Put the lid back on the pumpkin. Wrap the entire pumpkin in foil. Set pumpkin on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 325°F until the pumpkin shell is soft and the rice/fettuccini mixture hot, 2 to 3 hours.

Yield depends on size of pumpkin, but plan on people having seconds and thirds—this dish is that good.

To learn more about Fiji see: http://www.fijime.tv/

¶ Posted 27 April 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § CRUISING § ENTREES § PASTA § RECIPES § SIDE DISHES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: bula, Captain Cook, Captain Cook Cruises, fettuccini, Fiji, kava, MV Reef Endeavour, pumpkin, rice

World’s Best Chocolate Torte

Imagine sitting with a lover on the terrace of Merriman’s Kapalua. Your table overlooks a small-boat harbor and the south Maui shoreline where Humpback whales frolic in shimmering waters. Sunshine kisses all. Could life be sweeter?

Well…yes…frankly it could, the moment you lift a fork and bring the velvety darkness of Merriman’s Chocolate Lover’s Torte to the tongue. Forget everything else. Chocolate Lover’s Torte is perfection! It’s as good as it gets—and more.

But what else would one expect from chef Peter Merriman, a Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, native who settled in Hawaii

Peter Merriman in Maui

and opened three restaurants passionately dedicated to Hawaii Regional Cuisine.

“It’s the flavor that counts with me,” said Merriman, who, true to his name, punctuates sentences with joyful smiles and rousing laughs. “The best flavor comes from the best products, and we are committed to using the finest, freshest, local products available.”

Chocolate Lover’s Torte perfectly fits Merriman’s philosophy, being a simple-to-make, intensely flavorful dessert based on high-quality island ingredients. Although the torte can be made with any fine-quality chocolate, Merriman uses a 100% Hawaiian bittersweet chocolate that is processed in Kailua-Kona from beans grown on the Big Island (see Note).

CHOCOLATE LOVER’S TORTE

Yield: 8 to 10 servings.

Butter to grease cake pan

Cake flour to coat cake pan

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (see Note)

8 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

4 teaspoons instant coffee powder

1-1/3 cups plus 7 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

2/3 cup water

1-1/3 cups unsalted butter, softened to room temperature

7 eggs

2 tablespoons sifted cake flour

Optional garnish: raspberry puree, raspberries, whipped cream and/or ice cream

Generously butter a 9-inch springform pan and lightly dust with flour. Wrap outside of pan tightly with aluminum foil, using several sheets of foil so that water will not seep into the pan’s seams; set pan aside. Preheat oven to 375°F.

Put chocolates and coffee powder in a large mixing bowl; set aside.

Put 1-1/3 cups of the sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. Pour boiling mixture over reserved chocolate mixture; stir until chocolate completely melts and mixture is smooth. Gradually beat butter into chocolate mixture.

With electric mixer set on medium, beat eggs until they are well blended. Beating constantly, slowly add remaining 7 tablespoons sugar to eggs; continue beating 1 minute. Stir egg mixture into chocolate mixture. Fold flour into chocolate mixture.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Place pan in a larger pan (such as a roasting pan). Pour boiling water into the larger pan until it comes halfway up the side of the cake pan. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven until cake has risen slightly and is set, about 1 hour.

Remove cake pan from water bath and set on a rack to cool. Refrigerate cooled cake until it is well chilled. Remove sides from cake pan. Turn cake upside down on a serving platter and carefully remove bottom of cake pan.

Serve cake at room temperature or chilled, garnished with raspberry puree, raspberries, whipped cream and/or ice cream.

Note:

For bittersweet chocolate, Merriman uses pure Hawaiian chocolate from The Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. This chocolate is sold at select stores throughout Hawaii and by mail, in bars labeled “dark” chocolate. For more information, call 1-888-447-2626.