BELGIAN CHOCOLATE—OH MY!

Those who subscribe to author Terry Moore’s chocoholics 12-step program—“NEVER BE MORE THAN 12 STEPS FROM CHOCOLATE, ” should head to Belgium, as it has to be the most densely packed chocolate-rich country on earth. Although Belgium does not have the climate to grow cocoa beans, it does have the skill, standards and savvy to know what to do with them and, oh my, is it glorious! Belgium produces 172,000 tons (that’s right tons) of chocolate per year and sells it in over 2,000 local chocolate shops. Although every tiny town has it’s own chocolate boutiques, the mother lode fills Brussels where just about 12 steps in any direction can get you divine bites of heaven.

Back in 1857, Jean Neuhaus launched the Belgian chocolate industry when he started making candies for his apothecary shop. Needless to say the sweets sold better than the medicinals and the rest is history. The house of Neuhaus thrives to this day and is credited with inventing the “praline” in 1912 as well as the “ballotin” in 1915. In Belgian’s chocolate terminology, pralines are individual chocolates, made with a special chocolate couverture shell enclosing all sorts of luscious fillings, including nougat, fruit, caramel and creams and fondants infused with such delights as flowers, spices, herbs and liqueurs. The ballotin is a fancy box made to hold pralines. Although ballotins differ in appearance, their functional design remains the same as the original. Chocolate fanatics find much to feed their passions in Brussels. The city offers not only a plethora of shops, but also chocolate tours, demonstrations, cafes, workshops and classes. I’ve studied with two master chocolatiers, Christian Manon of Le Chocolatier Manon and Laurent Gerbaud of Laurent Gerbaud Chocolatier Bruxelles . Both artists produce exquisite pralines, Manon’s a little more complex than Laurent’s, and both offer interesting and informative classes. I liked that Laurent included a guided chocolate tasting in his class, and I liked that Manon said pick what you want to sample in his class. OMG-sooooooo fine!

Christian Manon of Le Chocolatier Manon

Laurent Gerbaud Chocolatier Bruxelles

A wise first stop on any Brussels chocolate-shopping spree has to be La Maison Des Maitres Chocolatiers. This shop, on the Grand Place, sells chocolates from 10 artisan masters giving the shopper an opportunity to sample and purchase a variety of tastes. My personal top favorite praline at this shop is a soft melting mocha caramel encased in dark chocolate made by Eric Goossens, or maybe it’s the home-made orange marmalade in chocolate from Ghana made by Geert Decoster, no, I think it’s the raspberry fruit paste and ganache with cointreau by Marc Ducobu or maybe it’s the…… Over 300 different companies produce chocolates in Belgium, some of the factories make large quantities and sell their chocolates online and in specialty shops all over the world. Other chocolatiers create exquisite handmade confections in such small batches that they are only available in shops adjoining their workshops. For the best of the best—get yourself to Belgium and be prepared to indulge. In the words of the bard: Age cannot wither the praline nor custom stale the infinite variety. Other candies cloy the appetites they feed, but Belgian chocolates makes hungry where most they satisfy. Praise be!

Gulf Shores, Lucy Buffett and L.A.Caviar

Lucy Buffett (yes, Jimmy’s sister) runs the exceedingly popular Lulu’s at Homeport Marina, a restaurant on the Intercoastal Waterway in Gulf Shores, Alabama. With service both indoors and out and live music, Lucy’s “high-class dive” attracts boaters, families, tourists and neighbors to dine on casual-beach-bar type food. Although Lulu’s features predictable Alabama pub fare heavy on the fried side, some dishes escape stereotype and totally surprise. For example, joining the traditional fried crab claws, chicken fingers and fried okra on the starter menu, is a most unusual dish of black-eyed peas.

Lucy says that she took the recipe from a “redneck-lawyer, rouge-gourmand friend,” gave it a twist and put it on her menu where it thrives. Today she makes it in 20-gallon batches and still has trouble keeping up with demand.

Although Lucy serves the L.A. Caviar as an appetizer, the dish would shine as a crowd-pleasing side dish at barbecues and casual family gatherings and/or as a contribution salad at potluck parties and tailgate picnics.

L.A. (LOWER ALABAMA) CAVIAR

Yield: 20 to 25 servings as an appetizer; about 8 servings as a side dish or salad.

3/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

4 (15-ounce) cans black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained

1-1/2 cups cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 cup chopped yellow bell pepper

1 cup chopped red onion

1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

Saltine crackers or tortilla chips

1. Make dressing by combining vinegar, oil, sugar, salt and pepper in a jar. Cover and shake jar vigorously to dissolve sugar. Set aside.

2. Place black-eyed peas in a large glass bowl. Add tomatoes, green, red and yellow peppers, onion and parsley.

3. Pour dressing over pea mixture and toss well to combine ingredients.

4. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours to overnight before serving.

Serve with crackers or tortilla chips.

¶ Posted 05 September 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ALABAMA § GULF SHORES § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § SALADS § SIDE DISHES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Alabama, black-eyed peas, Gulf Shores, Lulu's

Summer Magic in the Farmers Market

Almost every city has a farmer’s market, but best of them all has to be the Dane County Farmer’s Market in Madison,Wisconsin.

Held outdoors, rain or shine, every Wednesday and Saturday from May to November (and indoors, on Saturdays, in winter), the market draws the most crowds on summer Saturdays when vendors set up about 160 booths around four long blocks surrounding Wisconsin’s majestic State Capital building.

If it were made for a movie, the Madison market couldn’t be more perfect.

Locals show up when the market opens at 6 a.m., chefs come around 7 a.m., tourists join the crowd at 10 a.m. and students drag themselves out of bed getting to the market about an hour before it closes at 2 p.m. The array creates a charming cast of thousands who stroll counterclockwise around the booths, interacting as if they were attending one big happy neighborhood party. Street musicians, laughing children and picnickers lounging on the capital’s green grounds add to the Midwest dream scene, but it is the vendors and their products that play starring roles.

Wisconsin farmers man the booths selling their own homegrown seasonal produce and farm-related products (flowers, cheese, honey, maple syrup, jams, breads, etc.). Although everything for sale is of such high quality as to make one want to move to Madison and become a dedicated locavore, in mid-summer, particularly rave reviews go to the pick of the peak produce: tomatoes, cucumbers and green peppers.

TWO BLOCKBUSTER WAYS TO USE THE BOUNTY

GAZPACHO

Yield: 6 servings.

2 large ripe tomatoes, trimmed and cut into large chunks

4 cups tomato juice

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into large chunks

1 large green pepper, trimmed and cut into large chunks

1 small onion, peeled and quartered

1 large clove garlic, peeled and put through a press

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

Celery salt

Salt

Pepper

Ground cumin (optional)

Croutons, for serving

Working in small batches, put tomatoes in the jar of a blender. Add a little tomato juice and blend until finely chopped, but not pureed. Transfer blended mixture to a large bowl. Repeat blending with cucumber, green pepper and onion. Add any remaining tomato juice, garlic, oil and vinegar to blended mixture in bowl. Sprinkle lightly with celery salt, salt and pepper. Add a little cumin if desired. Stir and taste. Correct seasoning. Refrigerate in a covered container until you are ready to serve. Serve chilled soup with croutons.

GREEK SALAD

Yield: 6 servings.

4 large ripe tomatoes

2 slender cucumbers

2 green peppers

4 scallions

About 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

About 1/3 cup pitted kalamata olives

1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 large clove garlic, peeled

Trim tomatoes and cut into bite-size chunks.

Trim ends from cucumbers. (If the cucumber skin is tough, peel it. Young slender cucumbers do not need peeling.) Halve cucumbers and remove seeds. Cut cucumbers into bite-size chunks.

Trim peppers and cut into bite-size chunks.

Trim scallions and cut white part into 1/4-inch pieces.

Put all cut vegetables in a large bowl.

Add feta and olives. Sprinkle with oregano. Toss lightly.

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Meanwhile make dressing: Combine olive oil, lemon juice and salt in a small jar. Cut garlic into slivers and add. Set dressing aside until ready to serve.

Just before serving, remove garlic and pour dressing over vegetables. Toss lightly.

Serve.

¶ Posted 12 August 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § RECIPES § SALADS § SIDE DISHES § SOUPS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: cucumbers, Dane County Farmer's Market, Gazpacho, Greek salad, green peppers, tomatoes

GREAT GRILL

Although it is self-designated “the smallest town on earth, ” Durbuy

From the center of Durbuy, Belgium

is large enough to have a restaurant serving what my traveling companions claim is one of the biggest taste treats in all of Belgium. Considering the nature of our trip, this is super-size praise for any size town.

I was traveling with four fellow food writers through Wallonia, the French-speaking region of Belgium, enjoying a luscious sneak preview of the up-and-coming Belgian 2012 Year of Gastronomy.

Durboyse beer truck Susan Manlin Katzman

Local beer---good accompaniment to local food.

The day we landed in Durbuy for lunch (day three of our trip), we had already devoured a huge breakfast at the Auberge du Sabotier in Awenne (our previous night’s stop), followed by a generous beer and charcuterie tasting in Rochefort.

By the time we settled into Le Victoria Restaurant and Grill, I had so overindulged that I could only manage to order a small salad. My colleagues had more fortitude; they ordered grilled chicken.

Le Victoria is a pretty place with several dining areas. We chose an indoor table, near the open grill, and from my seat, I could hear the sizzle when chef Koen Timmerman put the chickens on to cook. Lured by the sound and scent, I stood to watch.

Koen Timmerman at Le Victoria Restaurant and Grill/Susan Manlin Katzman

Koen Timmerman grilling chicken at Le Victoria's open grill.

One half chicken constituted an order and Koen grilled the halves, over a medium high flame, basting and turning them often, until the skins were nicely browned and crispy. He then transferred the halves to a large bowl, tossed them for a few moments in what he called a “marinade.” and sent them to the table hot, fragrant and chin-dripping juicy. The whole process took about 20 minutes.

My colleagues raved. They raved after the first bite. They raved when they finished eating. They raved the following day. And they raved at the end of the trip when asked to remember their favorite meal.

They raved so much, that as soon as I returned home, I adapted Koen’s recipe (which he had given to me in restaurant proportions and European measurements), and made the chicken for a casual dinner party. My guests raved. My husband raved. Chances are you’ll rave too.

GRILLED CHICKEN

(Adapted from a recipe from Koen Timmerman. Le Victoria Restaurant and Grill)

Yield: 4 large servings.

2 frying chickens, halved

Basting ingredients:

1/2 cup olive oil

1-1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1/2 bay leaf

Finishing ingredients “marinade”:

1/3 cup butter or margarine

1-1/2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

3/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Put basting ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until well combined; set aside.

Melt butter in a small saucepan. Add remaining finishing ingredients and stir well. Set aside. If necessary reheat mixture to melt butter before using.

Set chicken halves on a grill over hot coals. Grill, brushing often with basting mixture and turning as necessary, until halves are cooked through, but not dry, and skin is well browned and crispy.

Transfer chicken from the grill to a large dish. Pour finishing mixture over chicken and turn halves over several times to coat with mixture. Serve immediately.

¶ Posted 29 July 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ENTREES § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments (1) ° Tagged: Belgium, chicken, Durbuy, grill, Le Victoria Restaurant

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT IN BANGKOK

Som Tam (spicy papaya salad)

Granted, I enjoy hyperbole, but when it comes to Bangkok’s food scene, I can’t find an exageration to do it justice. Bangkok is bursting with fabulous food. North, south, east, west, up, down, all around, Bangkok is stacked, jam-packed, overloaded and overflowing with good places to eat. The choices are nothing short of overwhelming.

Pad Thai (fried rice noodles)

Kai Med Ma Muang (stir-fried chicken with cashews)

As knowing where to begin exploring the feast is a task beyond the average tourist, I asked the lovely Vimolpatra Tunganaga for help.

Vimolpatra lives in Bangkok, comes from a Thai restaurant family and works for The Crown Property Bureau, the agency responsible for managing the personal wealth of the King of Thailand and his immediate family, so she knows the ins and outs of all things Bangkok, particularly its food.

Vimolpatra suggests the following three restaurant chains, because, she says, each has multiple locations, is reasonably priced and serves high-quality Thai (and fusion) foods that are popular with both Thais and faràngs (“foreigners”).

Three Thai Appetizer by Susan Manlin Katzman

Popular Thai appetizers: shrimp cakes, spring rolls and satay.

KALPAPRUEK

This independently owned chain has several branches with the three most popular being:

the original Kalpapruek Restaurant Silom: 27, Pramuan Rd., Suriyawong, Bang Rak;

and

Kalpapruek on First, on the 1^st floor of the Emporium shopping complex;

and

Ghang Keow Wan (green curry)

Ging Kalpapruek in the Siam Paragon shopping center.

GREYHOUND CAFÉ

Tourist can find this popular restaurant in eight different locations including:

the original on the second floor of the Emporium shopping complex;

at the Siam Paragon shopping center;

and on the ground floor of the Siam Centre.

Khao Neow Ma Muong (coconut sticky rice with mango)

SEEFAH RESTAURANT

One of the oldest restaurants in Bangkok, Seefah boasts about 20 branches that are still family owned and operated.

A good choice for tourists is one of the earliest Seefah’s at the Siam location, No. 434-440, Siam Square, Soi 9, Rama 1 Rd.

Recipes:

PAD THAI

CHICKEN SATAY

¶ Posted 19 July 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

Croque Madame

The Grove Café & Market in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is not your usual food outlet. Owned and operated by

Chef Jason Greene

husband and wife team, Jason and Lauren Greene, the property is part restaurant, part coffee house (great espresso) and part shop (selling artisan food products, culinary gifts, table-top items and books). It is open only part of the day (breakfast and lunch) and part of the week (closed on Monday).

Even the Café menu breaks with tradition. In a city where chiles dominate and food specialties lean to the Native American and Hispanic, The Grove’s food inclines towards the French. But only part of the menu wears French names, and even that part deviates from traditional classics, as Chef Jason likes to add personal twists to his repertoire.

All and all, the sum of The Grove’s parts equals a whole lot to admire, not the least being wholesome food (based on locally grown, organic and natural ingredients) that is wholeheartedly delicious. Perfect example: The Grove Café’s Croque Madame.

CROQUE MADAME

Yield: 1 serving.

1 large slice whole-wheat sourdough bread

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Black pepper aioli (recipe follows)

3 thin slices Black Forest ham

3 thin slices heirloom tomatoes

1 ounce shredded Cheddar cheese

3 thin slices French Gruyere cheese

1 egg

Chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Brush bread with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Set in oven until lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Let cool.

Spread a thin layer of black pepper aioli on one side of toasted bread. Add slices of ham. Top with tomato slices. Lightly salt and pepper tomato. Sprinkle shredded Cheddar over tomatoes and top with slices of Gruyere. Set sandwich in oven until cheese melts, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, put a little olive oil in a small skillet, set skillet over medium heat and fry egg, sunny side up.

Remove sandwich from oven. Cut sandwich in half and stack one half over the other. Top with egg. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

The Grove Cafe&Market by Susan Manlin Katzman

The Grove is located at 600 Central Ave

BLACK PEPPER AIOLI

Yield: 1 cup.

1 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon whole-grain mustard

1 garlic clove, peeled and minced

Combine all ingredients.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

¶ Posted 12 July 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BRUNCH § CHEESE § CONDIMENTS § ENTREES § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § SANDWICHES ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Albuquerque, Croque Madame, sandwich, The Grove Cafe & Market

500 SIPS OF SUMMER

Summertime,

And the sippin’ is easy.

Bars are jumpin’

And the patrons are high.

The menu’s rich.

And the cocktails’ good lookin.’

So I’m thinking maybe

You’d like to give some a try.

ROYAL DREAM

It takes a dictionary’s worth of adjectives to describe the Hotel Danieli, and all of them mean magnificent. In addition to architectural glory, sumptuous décor and luxurious service, this once-upon-a-time palace turned hotel could have the best location of any property in Italy. The ground floor opens to the Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice’s principal waterfront promenade. And the top floor holds the Ristorante Terrazza Danieli offering an unparalleled panoramic view of the Grand Canal and Adriatic sea. Nothing short of Champagne is good enough for the Danieli’s specialty cocktail, but as if Champagne alone is no match for the glory of the surroundings, the Danieli decorates the drink with fresh strawberries and a splash of cherry flavored liqueur.

ROYAL DREAM

Yield: 1 cocktail

3 large ripe strawberries, hulled

1 teaspoon sugar

1 ice cube

2 ounces Kirsch (cherry brandy)

Chilled Champagne

1/2 strawberry for garnish

Sprinkle strawberries with sugar and mash; set aside 5 minutes. Put strawberry mixture and ice cube in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain puree into a Champagne flute. Add Kirsch and fill glass with Champagne. Stir lightly with a spoon and serve immediately.

BLUE DREAM

Dolce La Hulpe Brussels bills itself as a hotel, resort and conference destination serving both business and leisure travelers. Located in the midst of a lush forest on the outskirts of Brussels, the property’s contemporary architecture and minimalist décor adds sleek sophistication to the nature-packed setting. In addition to 265 guest rooms and suites, extensive conference facilities, several restaurants and full-service spa, the center sports two great bars serving smashing cocktails, many of which have won top awards in national and international cocktail contests. Top winner, the Blue Dream, scores points for taste as well as beauty.

BLUE DREAM

Yield: one serving.

1 ounce dry French vermouth

1/2 ounce banana liqueur

1/2 ounce Blue Curacao

1-1/2 teaspoon Marie Brizard Manzanita green apple liqueur

1-1/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Ice

1 lychee for garnish

1 vanilla bean for garnish

Put all ingredients except the garnish in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well. Strain into a martini glass. Cut lychee to resemble a flower. Garnish drink with the lychee “flower” attaching the vanilla bean as a stem.

GATUN PUNCH

Perhaps building the Panama Canal was man’s most arduous task. Blood, sweat and tears marked construction where upwards of 25,000 people died, fortunes were lost and disasters lurked around every bend. It’s hard to imagine the turmoil when transiting the canal today, especially if the crossing is aboard a luxurious, six-star, Crystal Cruises ship. Life with Crystal Cruises is as good as it gets. All that’s required of passengers taking the short cut from the Pacific to the Atlantic is that they relax and enjoy. Crystal doesn’t pull punches when it comes to passengers’ pleasure, that is unless the punch was created for the occasion of the ship entering the Gatun Locks (the locks closest to the Canal’s Atlantic side). Cheers!

GATUN PUNCH

Yield: one serving.

2 ounces fresh orange juice

2 ounces pineapple juice

1 ounce sour mix

Dash grenadine

Ice

2 ounces rum

Cherry for garnish

Orange slice for garnish

Put orange juice, pineapple juice, sour mix and grenadine in a 12-ounce hurricane glass. Stir. Fill glass with ice. Float rum on top. Garnish with cherry and orange slice.

¶ Posted 27 June 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § COCKTAILS § CRUISING § DRINKS § RECIPES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Champagne, Crystal Cruises, Dolce La Hulpe Brussels, Hotel Danieli, Panama Canal, Specialty cocktails

Crowd-Pleasing Barbecue Beef Brisket

WHO: everyone, anyone

WHAT: barbecue

WHEN: summer

WHERE: backyard

WHY: great food, good times

HOW: keep it easy by preparing some dishes ahead, buying some and grilling only quick-cooking meats such as hot dogs, bratwurst and other sausages.

BARBECUE BEEF BRISKET

Yield: 10 to 12 servings.

1 (5 to 6 pounds) beef brisket, well trimmed

1-1/2 cups chili sauce

1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup ketchup

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons hot-pepper sauce

2 (12 ounces each) beers

2 tablespoons liquid smoke

1 cup barbecue sauce (optional)

Hamburger buns

Put brisket in a roasting pan. Combine chili sauce, sugar, ketchup, Worcestershire, hot-pepper sauce, beer and liquid smoke in a medium-size mixing bowl; stir until sugar dissolves. Pour mixture over beef. Cover pan, refrigerate and let beef marinate several hours to overnight, turning occasionally. Set pan in a preheated 300°F oven and roast until beef easily pulls apart in shreds, about 4 hours.

Remove pan from oven. Remove beef from pan. Drain sauce in pan into a 3-quart saucepan. Skim fat from sauce. Set saucepan over high heat and bring sauce to a boil. Boil until sauce is reduced to 3 cups. Taste sauce and, if desired, add 1 cup commercial barbecue sauce.

While sauce reduces, cut all fat from beef (discard fat). Pull beef into shreds with a fork.

Mix beef shreds and with sauce.

You can serve the beef immediately, or you can cool the beef at room temperature and refrigerated it in a covered container for several days. It also freezes well (thaw before reheating).

Re-heat in covered roasting pan, in a 350°F oven until hot.

Serve beef hot on hamburger buns.

¶ Posted 20 June 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ENTERTAINING § ENTREES ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: barbecue, beef, summer party

Coffee Rub Seasoning Mix

Chef Jim Leonardo

So my favorite winter recipe is turning out to work magic on summer grills.

I’m talking about a coffee rub recipe from Jim Leonardo, chef of Vinology, the spiffy wine-bar and restaurant in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Chef Leonardo uses the rub to season bison sliders that he puts on Vinology’s late-night menu and serves at receptions and parties that Vinology caters. Topped with an onion marmalade and boursin spread, the sliders are nothing short of fabulous (you can find the full recipe in an article that I wrote for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch if you click HERE ). Take away the toppings and the sliders would still be terrific, thanks to the coffee rub.

Last winter, I used the seasoning to perk up stews and slow-cooking roasts (both pork and beef) and I gamely slathered it on game.

This summer, when unusually hot weather provides grounds for not cooking indoors, I’ve use the coffee seasoning to beef up the flavor of hamburgers, steaks and ribs cooked on the outdoor grill. Trust me, the coffee seasoning is no grind to make and renders grilled beef, pork and other fatty meats pig-out delicious!

COFFEE RUB SEASONING MIX

Yield: about 1-1/2 cups.

1/2 cup finely ground decaffeinated dark-roast coffee

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 tablespoons granulated garlic

2 tablespoons granulated onion

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 cup salt

Combine all ingredients and store , at room temperature, in an airtight container.

¶ Posted 08 June 2011 † Susan Manlin Katzman § CONDIMENTS § ENTREES § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: COFFEE, grills, seasoning, Vinology

Where to Eat in Ann Arbor, Michigan

Kim Bayer

Kim Bayer knows Ann Arbor’s food from the ground up, literally. She is a freelance writer, culinary researcher and has a little consulting business doing CSA Matchmaking, helping people find the CSA farm share that best matches their needs.

(As you probably know, but I didn’t, CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture. It’s like a subscription to a farm, where members receive food directly from farmers and also share the farmer’s risk by paying in advance for a portion of the farmer’s crop. Pretty cool.)

In addition Kim serves as president of Slow Food Huron Valley, an organization responsible for energizing the area’s “good food” movement and hosting food-focused events such as the annual HomeGrown Festival, Pie Lovers Unite! and Local Food Summit. Kim also volunteers at the Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive (utilizing the master’s degree she earned in Library Science at the University of Michigan).

In her free time Kim blogs (check out The Farmer’s Marketer); hosts radio shows; and works on a book showcasing Ann Arbor food.

Whew! It’s a wonder she has time to eat—but she does and when asked to name her 10 favorite Ann Arbor places to eat, she found the time to generously comply.

As you can imagine, Kim is partial to the pure, organic, sustainable, and downright delicious foods grown and produced in her local area. Here, in her own words are the Ann Arbor food outlets that please her:

ANN ARBOR FARMERS’ MARKET My number one place for food in Ann Arbor is our amazing year-round Farmers’ Market. With over 120 vendors (and a waiting list of 100 more), this historic 90-year-old market takes place weekly on Saturdays between the cobblestone streets of the Kerrytown historic district. From April through December the market also runs on Wednesdays. And this summer it’s testing out a nighttime market on Wednesday evenings starting in June! With all the beautiful seasonal produce, along with eggs, meat, cheese, condiments and bread, it’s not really necessary to go anywhere else for food supplies.

Some special items to look for at the Market include: Frog Holler Organic Farm’s famous salad mix with herbs and flower petals; Cecilia Mercante’s buttery pastries and authentic French macarons; Thomas’ Creamery organic yogurt and ice cream; Snow’s maple syrup; Garden Works pea shoots; Tasty Bakery’s gluten-free chocolate chip cookies; Archie Jennings’ heirloom, organic grains and stone-ground cornmeals; and The Folktory’s Chai Latte Muffins.

And for a quick meal you can eat right there, check out some great food carts: Pilar’s serves handmade Ecuadoran tamales, the Flint Creperie has nice made-to-order savory and sweet crepes, and EAT is a great place to get a Korean bbq sandwich with some delicious Brinery kimchi on top. Or, go inside and pull up a chair for some of Monahan’s seafood chowder of the day. The options are legion!

Brandon Johns

GRANGE KITCHEN AND BAR The first restaurant in town to source 95% of its food from great local farms, Grange Kitchen and Bar is at the top of my list for dinner – especially with out of town guests who have yet to experience seasonal “farm-to-fork” dining. I swoon for the roasted chicken with crispy skin and for the pillowy gnocchi with ramps. Anything with pork is sure to be wonderful. Don’t miss the week of springtime dinners featuring morels! I’m a big fan of happy hour in the cozy upstairs bar at Grange. From 5-7pm Monday-Friday all artisan drinks (including their fabulous “bacon” Manhattan) and all bar menu items (like fried green tomatoes served in the summertime with bacon jam) are $2 off. Are you sensing a porcine theme? See if you can catch a glimpse of the pig tattooed on the forearm of Chef/Owner Brandon Johns.

ZINGERMAN’S DELI AND ROADHOUSE You can’t say you’ve been in Ann Arbor until you’ve been to ZINGERMAN’S DELI and had a #2 Reuben sandwich that is what all other Rueben sandwiches wish they could be when they die and go to heaven. The corned beef is excellent, but be sure to order an extra dose of their super yummy homemade Russian dressing to go with. You might think $15 is expensive for a sandwich, but not only is it the best sandwich you’ve ever eaten, it’s also so big there are at least 2 meals in that sandwich. Although the friendly and frenetic energy at the Deli is great (and it’s just across the street from the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market), locals know that if you don’t want to stand in a line that snakes around the block on Saturday mornings, you should call and order ahead.

ZINGERMAN’S ROADHOUSE is also a key Ann Arbor experience featuring some of the best truly American food (smoky barbecue, great crabcakes, famous mac and cheese, fresh oysters) and the most excellent customer service you’re likely to experience anywhere. Much of the seasonal, heirloom produce comes from their own Cornman Farms. I’m in love with the fries at the Roadhouse.The sweet potato fries are great, but the handcut regular fries are worth a trip on their own. Anything with BBQ in the name is sure to be delicious – and is smoked in the big wood-fired drum smokers out back. My favorite is to get the pulled pork with *all* the different sauces on the side.

SILVIO’S ORGANIC PIZZA Although the location in a tiny pedestrian mall off North University is obscure and student-dominated, a meal at Silvio’s is reminiscent of a home-cooked meal with the Italian aunt and uncle you wish you had. With a focus on local and organic (as well as many gluten-free options), Silvio calls his food “cucina tradizionale.” Whether you order the ever popular thin-crust pizza or creamy polenta or handmade pasta, a meal at Silvio’s is home-style cooking as warm as a double kiss on the cheek. The appetizers are a great way to start – I love the crispy, cheesy arancini (basically fried risotto cakes) and the fresh-tasting grilled vegetable platter. I’m especially enamored of the fact that at Silvio’s they make their own pastas. Don’t miss the mushroom ravioli. And the manicotti is delicious. If polenta is on the menu, order it; it’s the creamiest polenta I’ve ever tasted. In terms of pizza, the truffle pizza with smoked mozzarella is their biggest seller, but my favorite is the potato pizza with gorgonzola and rosemary. Or maybe it’s the zucchini and feta pizza. And now they serve wine and beer too!

CAFE VERDE Cafe Verde next to the People’s Food Co-op used to be a super low-key place to hang out with my laptop or with a friend, but these days it’s always humming. And at lunchtime it’s positively packed. Not only is their food inexpensive and delicious, it’s also good for you. All their coffee is fair trade, their dairy products are organic, and the to-go cups are compostable. The extensive Cafe Verde salad bar (and hot bar with soup) is the freshest and best in town. One of my favorite lunches is a bowl of their chicken soup that comes with a slice of bread and butter.

EASTERN ACCENTS Eastern Accents on Fourth Ave. is one of my favorite spots downtown to stop for a snack and to catch my breath in the middle of a busy day. Usually quiet and serene, it’s a good place to meet a friend for a cup of tea. My daughter calls this place the “Asian Bakery” because of their unique selection of house-made steamed and baked Chinese buns, pastries and desserts. When she was younger we would sometimes stop in for a special treat on the way to school – at 7:30am they are taking warm stuffed veggie buns and egg tarts out of the oven. Delicious with a cup of chai tea either morning or afternoon. They also have a small menu of stir-fried items, house made soups, and be-bim-bop for a satisfying lunch.

BEWON Ann Arbor is fortunate that many of the cuisines of the world are represented here, including Ethiopian, Thai, Salvadoran, and Japanese, to name a few. But perhaps the most numerous of the ethnic eateries, with more than a dozen, are the Korean restaurants. One of the best is Bewon, in the northeast part of town. For starters, their panchen (little shared dishes sent out in advance of the meal) are superior. Including mild sweet and sour pickled radish, tender fried rice cakes, savory seaweed salad, and soy braised potatoes along with the ubiquitous kimchi, these 5 little dishes alone would be sufficient for a tasty meal. But really you don’t want to stop there.

So deliciously spicy and warming on a cold gray Michigan day, I love going out for Korean food in the wintertime. One standard that I frequently crave is a fiery soup based on the Korean national dish: Kimchi Stew. At Bewon, the arrival of this dish envelopes you in a fragrant cloud of steam created by the furious boiling of the thick stew in its black stone bowl. Red like the winter sun and filled with pungent, spicy cabbage, mild tofu and slices of pork, it’s served with a side of unusual (but tasty) black rice. I love how it warms you from the inside out.

WASHTENAW DAIRY Although it’s a bit more seasonal than others, the 75 year old Washtenaw Dairy is a local institution worth seeking out. Located in the picturesque Old West Side historic district, the WD (as it’s known to residents) is a neighborhood gathering place on warm summer evenings when people line up to choose among more than 50 flavors of ice cream. It’s a happy sight to walk up in the twilight and see dozens of families and groups of friends enjoying enormous ice cream cones. A throwback to an earlier time, the WD is also a gathering place mornings when a large group of octogenarians holds its regular kaffeeklatsch around formica tables. In addition to the ice cream, Washtenaw Dairy is known for its crispy cake-style donuts that start coming out of the fryer at 6:30am.

SUPPERCLUBS, BREAKFAST SALON, and GOURMET FOOD CARTS A final and quintessential Ann Arbor experience may require a little bit of advance planning, but is well worth the trouble. Search out one of a number of “secret” and not-so-secret dining experiences including: “clandestine dining” with the BONA SERA SUPPERCLUB and the pop-up restaurant at SATURDAYS AT THE JEFF , along with the SELMA CAFE, a local food breakfast salon hosted in a private home, and the new MARK’S CARTS, seven gourmet food carts in one downtown location.