PARIS FLEA MARKET

My favorite Paris flea market is not the famous Les Puces de Saint-Quen at Porte de Clignancourt (covering 17 acres and claustrophobically crowded), but the gentle Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves covering two long lanes and quiet enough to allow up-close and personal liaisons with a happy array of second-hand treasures.

At 7 a.m. every Saturday and Sunday, rain or shine, holiday or not, about 380 dealers (and a handful of fringe street sellers)—set up set up wares on two intersecting blocks in the 14^th arrondissement. The stands on Avenue Marc Sangnier close around 1 p.m. while the stands lining Avenue Georges Lafenestre stay around later depending on the amount of business.

Easy is the word to describe this market— easy to navigate, easy to love and

easy to reach by metro. Here’s what you do:

Take metro line 13 to

Exit bd Brune

Follow the arrow to the Marché aux Puces

When you reach

Cross the street and voilà! you have arrived.

Among the delights you might find:

Tableware

Books

Stand at Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves selling vintage clothing

Vintage clothing and textiles

Bric-à-brac

Old French Postcards

Jewerly

African art

50s, 60s and 70s furniture

A stand selling art at the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves in Paris

Paintings

Dolls

Mirrors

Much stuff for sale at the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves in Paris

More Bric-à-brac

and an

Selling organic coffee and tea at the Marche aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves

Enterprising vendor selling hot coffee and tea

Oh là là—happy hunting.

¶ Posted 17 April 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § FRANCE § PARIS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

WHERE TO EAT IN TEL AVIV

Chef Yair Feinberg has fingers in many pots that create the culinary stew of today’s Tel Aviv. The Israeli native of Kibbutz Ein Hashlosha is not only a chef who has cooked in Michelin-decorated restaurants in France and Italy, but also an entrepreneur who created a business importing cooking appliances to Israel, a culinary celebrity known for T.V. work, an educator who gives cooking workshops and an unofficial ambassador of all things culinary who leads visiting chefs and tourists on tours of Tel Aviv markets.

Chef Yair Feinberg

When asked to describe the Tel Aviv food scene, Yair says that Israeli food is pronounced and strong, like the Israeli people and that the country’s food offering is shaped by not only the immigrants that bring their native dishes to Israel, but also the Israelis who travel and import ideas from other countries. Yair credits the vibrant young chefs who take their grandmother’s immigrant recipes and make them with the freshest possible ingredients and up-to-date cooking techniques for creating what is being called Modern Israeli Cuisine.

Although he likes many restaurants and claims tourists can find much food to enjoy in Tel Aviv, Yair recommends a few special spots to anyone wanting an overview of Tel Aviv’s best.

In his own words:

The commercial and cultural center of Israel, has more to offer than just sun and sea. A flourishing gastronomic culture assures that you’ll never go hungry in the city that never sleeps. Here are a few of my favorite places:

HaBasta

4 Hashomer St. (near the entrance to Carmel Market)

Tel: 03-5169234

Wine bar par excellence by Chef Maoz Alonim and Itay Hargil. Everything about the place transports you instantly to Barcelona or Madrid. The place can be quite crowded sometimes but that only adds to the cozy ambience. It is not uncommon to rub shoulders with fellow customers or even start some friendly conversations. Chef Maoz Alonim is a wine expert and that may explain the more than 250 wines in stock. Not a place for elegant dining, but definitely worth frequent returns. These talented chefs start the day with some shopping at the market itself and slowly build their menu from the day’s find. Other chefs love to hang out here at the end of their day’s work. They wine and dine like there’s no tomorrow.

Pinat HaShlosha

84 Ben-Zvi Road (ground floor of Panorama Building)

Tel: 03-5183539

Authentic middle eastern-oriental steakhouse that serves traditional Bukharin dishes with excellent, or perhaps even the best, shawarma in town. They also have an open salad bar and freshly baked pitas. The place is usually packed with waiting customers. A treat you should not miss if you want an authentic Israeli dining experience. Kosher.

Hummus Abu Marwan

129 Yeffet St., Jaffa

Most loved hummus on Jaffa’s main street, Yefet. Abu Marwan hummus, I promise you, is the real deal. The chickpeas are to die for. Abu Marwan’s masabacha can rival even that of the fabled Abu Hassan. The hummus is usually served with mini falafel balls and salad but what you should ask for is the grilled eggplant with tahini and lemon. Your Tel Aviv culinary experience wouldn’t be complete if you miss this joint.

Shila

182 Ben Yehuda St.

Tel: 03-5221224

Definitely, my favorite bar/restaurant in Tel Aviv. A bustling bar restaurant. Sharon Cohen is both chef and owner and it shows. For five years now, he consistently maintained this place, giving his personal touches with great success. A very modernist cuisine with the best that the Mediterranean has to offer. Sharon uses only the freshest ingredients and marinates them in his pool of creativity until you get a meal that both surprises and delights.

Bertie

86 King George St.

Tel: 072-2512950;

Relatively new bar/bistro, but already packed with eager customers. Described as a happy ‘levant’ kitchen or as having that special mix of Tel Aviv-ian bistro and Jerusalem-ite ‘Mahane Yehuda’ joint. Two young talented chefs from the finest restaurants in Tel Aviv (one of them is Yishay Malkov, who used to manage Gordon Ramsay’s ‘Claridges’ in London) set up shop here and are already attracting an audience. The place has a chilled-out atmosphere that is warm, inviting and unpretentious. They serve really good food that is made by people who know their stuff.

HaMizlala

57 Nachalat Binyamin St.

Tel: 03-5665506

The best bistro in town, if you ask me. The second restaurant by one of Tel Aviv’s most respected chefs. Unlike the upscale and classic Catit, the atmosphere here is more relaxed and the food contemporary, but still maintains the same high quality that has been Chef Adoni’s trademark. The menu is minimal, but the food isn’t. This is a place that really defines dining out in Tel Aviv.

Penso

43 Levinsky St.

This is the place to try Turkish burekas, a classic Israeli snack that is both affordable and filling. Traditionally from the Balkan, it has a crispy, flaky, melt in your mouth crust while inside it can be filled with any of the following- cheese, spinach, spiced mashed potatoes, mushrooms and even chopped meat. If there is a burekas landmark in Tel Aviv, this is it! Penso has been serving amazing Turkish baked goods for 80 years and is managed by the 3^rd generation of the Penso family from Turkey. You can choose three different types of pastry doughs – regular, flaky and phyllo. I highly recommend eating your burekas with a glass of Aryan, a traditional Turkish yoghurt drink similar to Indian lassi—a winning combination.

Open Air Farmer’s Market

The newly renovated Tel Aviv Port is bustling with energy. Beside the restaurants and shops that have sprouted there is a farmer’s market. Very different from the crowded and noisy Carmel market, the farmers’ market offers artisanal breads, meats and farmhouse cheeses, fair trade olive oils, vinegars, coffee and loads of fresh and mostly organic agricultural produce (picked that very same morning). Almost everyone gives free tasting. Don’t miss the locally brewed beers and boutique wines. It is a colorful and interesting showcase of some of the very best that Israel’s gastronomy has to offer. Open every day but highly recommended to visit on Tuesdays and Fridays.

¶ Posted 11 April 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ISRAEL § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Tel Aviv

Hot Chocolate and Rum Punch

You know what I’m going to miss most about winter? No, not skiing in St. Moritz, and certainly not heating bills large enough to pay for skiing in St. Moritz. I’m going to miss the après ski hot chocolate mélange as served at the Hauser Hotel in St. Moritz. The hot chocolate is so comforting and warming that it heightens the wonder of icy winter.

You know what I’m looking forward to most about summer? No, not sunning in Anguilla, and certainly not air conditioning bills large enough to pay for sunning in Anguilla. I’m looking forward to the happy hour rum punch as served at the Frangipani Beach Resort in Anguilla. The punch is so cheering and cooling that it increases the splendor of steamy summer.

Winter/Summer. Hot/Cold. The ying/yang of seasonal sipping. Mmmmmmmmm!

And you don’t have to be in St. Moritz or Anguilla to enjoy the drinks—although, must say, being there is as good as it gets…

HAUSER’S HOT CHOCOLATE

Yield: 1 to 2 cups.

1/2 cup water

1/3 cup sugar

6 tablespoons cocoa powder

1-1/2 ounces Maracaibo 65% or other high-quality dark chocolate, chopped

1/2 to 1 cup warm milk, half and half or cream (see note)

Sweetened whipped cream

Chocolate sprinkles (optional)

Bring water to a boil in a saucepan. Add sugar and stir until sugar completely dissolves. Add enough water to the cocoa powder to make a smooth paste. Whisk cocoa paste into hot sugar water and keep whisking until mixture is very well blended. Reduce heat to low. Add chopped chocolate; stir to melt. Add hot milk to taste. Stir until well blended. Pour chocolate into mugs and top each serving with sweetened whipped cream and garnish with chocolate sprinkles.

NOTE: The less milk, half and half or cream you add to the base chocolate mixture, the sweeter and more intensely chocolate the drink will be.

FRANGIPANI’S RUM PUNCH

Yield: 1 serving.

1/4 cup pineapple juice

1/4 cup orange juice

2 ounces Myers’s Rum

1/2 ounce Grenadine syrup

1/2 ounce apricot brandy

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

Dash nutmeg

Maraschino cherry for garnish

Mix all ingredients and pour into a 12-ounce glass filled with iced. Garnish with a cherry and, if you like, add a paper fan.

¶ Posted 31 March 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § CHOCOLATE § COCKTAILS § DRINKS § Uncategorized ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Anguilla, hot chocolate, rum punch, St. Moritz

HEALTHY, WEALTHY AND WISE

Don’t you just hate it when you can’t get your MRI scan, dental crowns, acupuncture and a facial in the same day, at the same place. Oh, and did I mention botox, a pedicure, fitness counseling and cooking classes?

Those who find the inconvenience of multi-stops annoying can now enjoy one-stop health and fitness shopping at the California Health & Longevity Institute located in the Four Seasons Hotel in Westlake, California.

Four Seasons Hotel Westlake Village

Originally designed for busy executives to have annual physicals, the California Health & Longevity Institute employs physicians, dentists, nurses and other professionals to provide complete health screenings as well as personal lifestyle consultations.

One can dip in for a half-day, whole day or multi-day visit, and do as little as get a check up, or indulge in the full monty which includes a physical exam, diagnostic testing, a complementary-medicine treatment, personal consultations with healthcare professionals, cooking classes, wellness workshops and spa treatments.

Grounds invite peace and tranquility

Ever hear Mary Poppins sing, “A spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down?” Well the non-medical sugar of the complex includes the 270-room Four Seasons and the hotel’s 16,000-square-foot fitness area, four dining areas (balancing healthy-haute and super-indulgent cuisines) and glorious 40,000-square-foot spa.

Orchid House

Decorated with waterwalls and bridges, an outdoor pool with cabanas and waiting rooms filled with orchids (did I mention there is an orchid house on property), the 28-treatment room spa is the largest in the Four Season’s system and, to me, the best of any day spa in any hotel, anywhere.

Resting room at the spa

I’m not going to tell you the cost for a medical/spa/stay, but can say it falls into the if-you-have-to-ask category and is probably not covered by Medicare. Have you heard the saying, “People who say money can’t buy happiness don’t know where to shop.”? Applies in this case.

On the other hand, you’ve no doubt also heard “The best things in life are free.” I’m passing along some of the Institute’s cooking class recipes, which are yours free for the copying.

ASPARAGUS WITH SESAME CHILI VINAIGRETTE

Yield: 6 servings.

1-1/2 pounds asparagus, ends broken off (see note)

1 tablespoon olive oil

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons water

1-1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon chili oil

1-1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

3/4 teaspoon dry mustard

Spread asparagus on a foil lined baking sheet. Toss with olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set asparagus in a preheated 400°F oven and roast for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile make vinaigrette by whisking together: vinegar, water, soy sauce, sesame oil and chili oil. Whisk in sugar, sesame seeds, mustard and black pepper to taste.

Remove asparagus from oven and toss, while hot, with vinaigrette. Serve asparagus warm or at room temperature.

NOTE: If asparagus are large, peel stalks with a vegetable peeler and then break off ends.

STRAWBERRIES WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

Yield: 6 servings.

3 pints of strawberries, hulled and halved

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

6 small scoops frozen yogurt or lite whipped topping

Put strawberries in a medium-size bowl and toss gently with vinegar and sugar. Set mixture aside for 10 minutes.

Divide strawberries evenly among 6 goblets. Drizzle any vinegar/sugar syrup remaining in bowl over strawberries, dividing syrup evenly among the six servings. Top each serving with frozen yogurt or whipped topping.

¶ Posted 23 March 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ACCOMMODATIONS § CALIFORNIA § DESSERTS § RECIPES § RESORTS § SIDE DISHES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

Fredericksburg Part Two

Oops, my last post mentioned good things tourists find in Fredericksburg (a terrific museum, interesting National and State parks; super shopping, a thriving wine industry), but I didn’t mention the art scene.

Artist Phil Bob Borman in the Fredericksburg Art Gallery

This Texas Hill Country community positively overflows with art galleries, showcasing and selling a eclectic mixture of visuals, including sculpture, glass and all sorts of paintings (representational, Western, European…well, you get the picture). And once a month most of the galleries participate in First Friday Art Walks, enhancing the viewing with music, wine tastings and/or tidbits to eat.

Whistle Pik Galleries

I found a state-of-the-art tidbit served at the Whistle Pik Galleries on an art walk evening. It was sweet and savory, appropriate to accompany cocktails or afternoon tea and pretty as a picture, being fashioned into decorative shapes and even dressed-up with drizzles of chocolate.

John Dubea

The “cookies” were so good, that right after emptying the plate, I went searching for the baker. Turns out he is John Dubea, co-owner of Clear River, an old-time bakery, ice cream parlor and 1960s themed café that does catering for some of the gallery openings.

Color me happy. Life imitates art—I imitate Dubea for my own cocktail party or little-tidbit events—and so could you:

John Dubea’s SWEET AND SAVORY SHORTBREAD

1/2 cup finely chopped dried cranberries

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

Boiling water

1-1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

3/4 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

Put cranberries and pepper in a small bowl. Cover with boiling water. Let sit 10 minutes. Drain well.

Mix together flour, sugar, cornstarch, salt and baking powder. Sprinkle butter cubes over top. Process mixture in a food processor or work with hands until mixture forms a smooth dough. Mix in cranberries and red pepper.

Roll dough 1/4-inch thick between two sheets of parchment paper. Remove the top sheet of parchment. Cut dough into desired shapes. Spread cookies apart and place parchment on a baking sheet.

Bake in a preheated 325°F until cookies are set and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.

Rothwell Pool

That said, I also have to add a P.S. to the Fredericksburg restaurant suggestions. In the last post, David Kuhlken listed only six of the 70-something places to eat in Fredericksburg. My friend, Rothwell Pool, took exception. This bon vivant, gourmand, Texas bad boy, rancher/lawyer who hangs out in Fredericksburg says that the town has a Texas-size variety of outstanding restaurants and deserves more than six listings. He (and his lovely wife Leigh) would add:

NAVAJO GRILL

Located right on East Main, the Navajo Grill is convenient, but away from the frenzy that can be downtown. With quintessential Hill Country décor, open and covered patios, and seasonal menu featuring beautifully presented dishes made of the freshest ingredients, Navajo Grill is well worth a stop.

HILL TOP CAFÉ

A little Greek, a little Cajun and a lot of rock and roll — or maybe blues and boogie woogie. Eleven miles west of Fredericksburg, Hill Top cafe is a former gas station (the pumps still grace the entrance) that is owned by husband and wife team Johnny

Johnny Nicholas

and Brenda Nicholas. He’s of Greek decent from Rhode Island who performed with Grammy-winning Western Swing band Asleep at the Wheel and often performs for diners. Brenda brought the Cajun influence and is the pastry chef extraordinaire. Whether it’s an amazing Greek salad and flaming Kefalotiri Saganaki or oysters Bruton and whole Gulf flounder for two with shrimp and blue crab stuffing, topped w/ sauté shrimp and the occasional to-die-for snapper throats — it’s all fabulous. And the local veggies and sides are amazing. Occasionally local peppers will be offered for free by the cash register. The desserts are killers. Personal favorites include the blackberry, raspberry and strawberry rhubarb pies. The crusts and fillings are amazing. Staff is super friendly and accommodating. It’s one big funky family. Reservations are recommended.

AUSLANDER BIERGARTEN AND RESTAURANT

Right in the heart of Fredericksburg, the Auslander is a perfect combination of German biergarten and Hill Country honky tonk. The biergarten in the back is semi-enclosed with picnic tables on pea gravel and is a great place to eat some ‘shrooms, drink Spaten Optimator and listen to music. The wife loves it primarily because she can drop me there and I’ll be content for hours while she shops. By the time she appears loaded down with must-have goodies, I’ve mellowed on Optimator and made tons of new best friends. It’s like Luckenbach without having to drive there!

¶ Posted 14 March 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § APPETIZERS § COOKIES § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § TEXAS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Fredericksburg, shortbread, Texas

WHERE TO EAT IN FREDERICKSBURG, TEXAS

So what can I tell you about Fredericksburg deep in the heart of Texas?

I could tell you that the town has an extraordinary museum: The National Museum of the Pacific War;

and a fantastic Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park, showcasing the LBJ Ranch;

and good shopping;

and a choice of fun places to stay (my favorite is the Hanger Hotel at the edge of a private airfield—think of it as a motel for private planes);

and a thriving wine industry;

and wonderful places to eat—which brings me to winemaker David Kuhlken. David is going to give us an overview of his favorite places to eat in Fredericksburg. Take it David:

WHERE TO EAT IN FREDERICKSBURG

David Kuhlken

Hi, I am David Kuhlken, winemaker and co-owner of my family’s winery Pedernales Cellars at 2916 Upper Albert Rd. just west of Fredericksburg. We have been growing grapes in the area since 1995 and now make our award winning Texas wines in our unique underground cellar. We focus on Tempranillo and Viognier along with other hot climate varietal selections. I am happy to have the opportunity to tell you where my family and I enjoy eating in Fredericksburg, but I have a hard time listing all of the great restaurants, as there are so many. The following are a few places that have never let us down.

First let’s talk about breakfast. My family and I like to have breakfast at some of the fantastic bakeries that Fredericksburg has to offer, and we particularly like the FREDERICKSBURG BAKERY at 141 East Main. Open since 1917, this German bakery makes fantastic pastries. The most popular item at the bakery is a puff pastry “Sweet German Pretzel” with nuts, brown sugar and sweet icing. I like to order it with another bakery specialty, the Pumpernickel Sausage Roll.

For a sit down breakfast we head to SUNSET GRILL at 902 South Adams for pancakes and coffee and, my personal favorite, “South American French Toast. ” Sunset Grill is a classic American bistro that also serves good lunches Monday through Saturday and a great Sunday brunch. They have a knack for mixing local ingredients with creative recipes. I particularly like their “Shrimp and Grits” and Caesar salad.

There are a number of great options for lunch and casual dinners with the family including WEST END PIZZA COMPANY at 232 West Main. Fresh ingredients and great crust makes the pizza special and the pasta is terrific. This is good choice for adults as well as kids.

Another favorite, about 20 minutes outside of town is ALAMO SPRINGS CAFE at 107 Alamo Road. The burgers are the thing here. Reputed to be the best in all of Texas, they are worth the wait on a busy day. This is a not-to-miss spot, especially if you plan to visit the Alamo Springs bat cave, which is next door.

When we really want to show friends what Fredericksburg and Texas cuisine is all about, we take them to CABERNET GRILL at 2805 South Highway 16. This restaurant, situated in a classic building with beautiful gardens, serves some of the best Texas cuisine in the state. I personally love to start with the “Pecan Crusted Crab Cakes” and a glass of Texas Viognier and then go for the “Tejas Mixed Grill” paired with a Texas Tempranillo. An all-Texas wine list combined with locally sourced ingredients in the hands of chef Ross Burtwell, make this the premier dinner destination in town. If you have room, try the “Three Apple Rhubarb Crisp” or one of the other spectacular desserts. Honestly we have never had a bad dish from their menu and we make sure to return every few months.

Finally, for a romantic weekend experience, we suggest lodging and dining at Rose Hill Manor at 2614 Upper Albert Rd. Stay in the main house or in one of the cottages and enjoy the spectacular view, excellent service, and well-appointed lodging. And don’t miss the extraordinary four-course dinner in the intimate dining room of their in-house restaurant AUSTIN’S. If you are not staying at the Manor, check for restaurant availability since space is limited for non-guests. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday evenings and the menu changes regularly, but is always fantastic. This is the place that my wife and I love to go when we can leave the kids at home in the vineyard with grandparents.

Austin's dining room

¶ Posted 27 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ACCOMMODATIONS § RESTAURANTS § TEXAS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: RESTAURANTS, Texas, travel

Gooey Butter Cookies, The Blue Owl and Kimmswick, MO

Kimmswick, Missouri, counts 97 official residents and two main attractions: the Anheuser Museum

Missouri countryside

& Estate—the ancestral home of a relative of the founder of the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, and the Windsor Harbor Road Bridge—a 60- (or thereabouts) foot long pedestrian bridge thought to be one of the oldest wrought iron spans in Missouri. Add a handful of buildings dating from 1860 and a few antique/craft shops and the whole scene still sounds a bit sleepy, yet the tiny town, located on the banks of the Mississippi river about 25 miles south of St. Louis, attracts hundreds of visitors each day.

And visitors come from around the world. The Kimmswick Visitors Center’s 2010-2011 register sports signatures from 16 countries and 49 states (not New Mexico, but New Mexicans could have slipped in without signing).

What’s the draw?

My guess is the Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery. Open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Tuesday thru Friday and from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends, the Blue Owl serves good, old fashioned breakfast and luncheon items, with specials including such Missouri country classics as biscuits & gravy, chicken and dumplings, pot pies and chicken-fried steak. But frankly, good as they are, the main courses don’t account for the crowds.

Desserts do.

Levee-high caramel apple pecan pie, peanut butter & chocolate cheesecake, coconut cream dream layer cake—OMG—and that’s just a start. At any given time, calorie seekers can find 25 handmade pies, 10 different specialty cakes and cheesecakes and at least two-dozen different pastries on the menu for dine in and/or take home. (Blue Owl also satisfies cravings by mail. See www.theblueowl.com for ordering instructions.)

Gooey butter goodies (derivatives of the gooey butter cake born in St Louis sometime in the early 1940s) top the list of perpetual favorites. In addition to cakes and cheesecakes, Blue Owl sells two heavenly gooey butter cookies: Gooey Butter Balls and Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies.

Mary Hostetter, owner of Blue Owl, said that both cookies are made from the same basic recipe, but the dough is shaped and baked differently to produce variety. I cut Mary’s recipe in half to print here—(a form of calorie control as I will devour as many cookies as I make). You can double the recipe if you dare.

GOOEY BUTTER COOKIES

Yield: About 2 to 3 dozen small Gooey Butter Balls or 6 Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies.

4 tablespoons butter, softened

Gooey Butter Balls

4 ounces cream cheese, softened

1 small egg

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

1 (about 18-ounce) box yellow cake mix

Powdered sugar

Put butter and cream cheese in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until well blended. Add egg and vanilla and beat until mixture is light and fluffy.

Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies

Add cake mix; beat until blended. Cover bowl and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Shape cookies:

To make Gooey Butter Balls, form dough into 1-inch balls and roll in powdered sugar. Place balls on a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, about 1-1/2 inches apart.

To make Jumbo Gooey Butter Cookies, shape dough into 3-inch balls and put on a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, at least 2 inches apart. Gently pat balls into large flat rounds. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Place baking sheets in preheated oven and bake until balls/cookies are set but not beginning to brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

Cool cookies and sprinkle with sifted powdered sugar before serving.

¶ Posted 17 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BREAKFAST § COOKIES § DESSERTS § MISSOURI § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off °

TEN REASONS TO LOVE TAOS, NEW MEXICO

Let’s be frank. Some visitors just don’t get Taos. Others fall in love at first sight. Taos is strange that way. The town speaks a different language to different people. Always has. Probably always will.

I’m in the love-it category. Why? Let me count the ways:

1. TAOS PUEBLO

Both a National Historic Landmark and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Taos Pueblo offers visitors a fascinating peek at the architecture and cultural life of an authentic Native American adobe pueblo that has been active for over 1,000 years and is considered the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States.

Taos Pueblo

2. HISTORY

Hunter-gatherers left potshards and pictographs in the area over 6,000 years ago, and they were followed by centuries of assorted settlers, invaders, and occupiers all contributing pieces of their own civilizations. The mix and mingling of cultures creates a special atmosphere in Taos and increases travel pleasure for anyone interested in culture and/or history.

3. ART

Tao’s rich art scene started in 1898 when two artists stopped to fix a broken wagon wheel and decided to stay. The town has drawn artists and their entourages (dealers, collectors and educators) happily ever after.

Taos artist Randall LaGro in his studio

4. PERSONALITIES

Kit Carson, Millicent Rogers, D.H. Lawrence, Mabel Dodge Luhan, Dennis Hopper and Willa Cather are just a few famous individuals who shed their spirit on the town. Their books, art, films and other work shine light on Taos and Taos spotlights them.

Lawrence painted Mabel’s bathroom windows because he felt “exposed” without curtains. The prude.

5. LOCATION

With an elevation of approximately 7,000 feet, on a sweeping desert mesa flanked by one of Northern New Mexico’s highest mountain peaks (Wheeler Peak), deepest gorge (Rio Grande Gorge) and loveliest forest (Carson National Forest), Taos offers a plethora of high-desert delights including postcard-perfect scenery, pristine air and dazzling, painter-pleasing natural light.

6. OUTDOOR SPORTS

Whitewater rafting in spring, hiking and biking in summer and fall, skiing in winter—stay in Taos and enjoy sports for all seasons.

7. SHOPPING

Collectors of contemporary art and Native American crafts find treasures in the town’s unique shops and galleries.

8. THE EARTHSHIP COMMUNITY

Taos is not only headquarters of the Earthship community, but also the place to see a large collection of the “radically sustainable” homes that take self-sufficiency to an ultimate level. Both weird and wonderful, Earthship buildings are constructed with natural and recycled materials (such as earth-packed automobile tires) and function independently off the grid, not needing to rely on public utilities.

An Earthship home.

9. ACCOMMODATIONS

When it comes to great places to stay, Taos supplies a broad choice ranging from homey B & Bs to top luxury resorts. My three personal favorite properties sit on Kit Carson Road, a short distance from each other and from the heart of town.

Inn on the Rio

Converted from a 1950s motel to a 12-rooms B & B, the Inn on the Rio wins accolades for its casual, comfortable ambiance, charming, hospitable owners and terrific breakfast. Good prices, easy parking and one of the few outdoor pools in Taos add to the draw.

Casa Benavides

Owned by Taos natives, Casa Benavides attracts “insiders” such as visiting artists and relatives of locals. The 39 rooms, located in several historically important buildings, differ as to decor and features, and an online matching system helps travelers fine the right fit. (I like the Anasazi room—but then, who wouldn’t.) I also adore the extravagant buffet of home-baked goodies set out, free of charge, for guests every afternoon.

El Monte Sagrado

El Monte Sagrado manages to combine environmentally sound practices with enticingly comfortable luxury. The lushly landscaped four-acre “eco lodge” includes two restaurant, a spa, a gift shop, a conference center (great for weddings) and 84 uniquely designed rooms/suites packed with amenities (fireplace, soaking tubs, original art, etc. etc. etc.). This is the place for guests who appreciate high style as well as rich substance.

10. FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

Mexican, New Mexican, Italian, French, all-American, casual, elaborate… Taos has all tastes covered. Although many places fall into the not-to-miss category, Guadalajara Grill heads the list as a favorite local hangout. In fact the super casual restaurant is so popular, it has two outlets in town, and both serve a fantastic shrimp cocktail.

Guadalajara Grill

SHRIMP COCKTAIL

(Adapted from a recipe from Guadalajara Grill, Taos, New Mexico.)

Yield: 1 large serving.

About 1 cup Clamato juice

1 tablespoon ketchup

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon finely chopped tomato

1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled and seeded cucumber

1 tablespoon finely chopped onion

1 teaspoon finely chopped cilantro

11 (21 to 25 count) cooked, peeled and deveined shrimp

1/3 ripe avocado, peeled and finely chopped

Salt

Serve with:

Wedges of fresh lime

Finely chopped jalapeno

Chopped cilantro

Hot-pepper sauce

Combine Clamato juice, ketchup, lime juice, tomato, cucumber, onion and cilantro in a non-reactive bowl; stir well. Add shrimp, avocado and salt to taste. Cover bowl and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours.

Serve chilled, in a fishbowl glass, with crackers or tortilla chips. Pass wedges of lime, chopped jalapeno pepper, chopped cilantro and hot-pepper sauce.

¶ Posted 13 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § APPETIZERS § NEW MEXICO § RECIPES § RESORTS § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off °

Tel Aviv Impressions and Great Hummus Recipe

In the beginning, God created heavens and the earth. Jaffa came later—according to archeologists, around 7500 BCE. And Tel Aviv, founded on the outskirts of Jaffe, claims April 11, 1909 as its birthday. That’s when 66 Jewish families purchased 12 acres of land on the mosquito infested, barren sand dunes outside of Jaffa, divvied up the land and started building. Today Tel Aviv is the thriving, lively and happening heart of entrepreneurial, financial and cultural Israel.

Tel Aviv as seen from Jaffa.

Most visitors enter Israel through Ben Gurion International Airport, located about 20 minutes from downtown Tel Aviv. Built of Jerusalem limestone quarried in the nearby Judean Hills, the airport is all bright and sleek with decorations worth study. Even if you are totally zonked from a long flight, look up as you walk the corridor to passport control. The mosaics above the entrance are actual remnants from 5^th and 6^th century Byzantine floors. The Greek inscription on the top right mosaic repeats a Biblical text: “Blessed shalt thou be when thou comest in, and blessed shalt thou be when thou goest out.” (Deuteronomy 28:6).

Two views of the Ben Gurion International Airport.

Archeologists define “tel “ or “tell” as a mound or hill built from layer upon on layer of different civilizations. Aviv is the Hebrew name for “spring.” The name symbolizes both the ancient and the renewed—which is particularly fitting for Tel Aviv, a city springing from one of the world’s oldest port cities and emerging as a mega modern international hub.

Located in central Israel, along 14 kilometers of Mediterranean shoreline, Tel Aviv sports first-rate beaches for summer lounging, swimming, playing, relaxing, visiting and enjoying sunshine fun.

The beach is also popular in winter.

How many ways do I love Tel Aviv, let’s start with 1,800—the number of cafes and restaurants that fill the city. Not-to-be missed food experiences include: big, bountiful, breakfast buffets served at most hotels; “Modern Israeli” cuisine produced by young Israeli chefs in upscale restaurants; casual fare served with coffee in coffee cafes; and Israel-style fast food (falafel and shawarma) found in street-side stands.

Lamb shawarma and chickpea falafel.

Over 90% of Tel Aviv is Jewish and the city pays attention to Shabbat (from sunset on Friday to an hour after sunset on Saturday). How does Shabbat impact tourists? Most businesses, kosher restaurants and cafes close Friday afternoon and all day Saturday, and public transportation options diminished (taxis still run). The larger hotels limit breakfast buffets to cold specialties or food that can be prepared ahead and kept warm. Some hotels have special Shabbat elevators that stop on every floor so that observers will not have to push electric buttons. The beaches are extra busy. Early Friday evening is quiet, as most residents join family and friends for a traditional Shabbat dinner (try to score an invitation, or hook up with a hotel as the Shabbat feast is as good as it gets) and after dinner, the nightclubs fill and the good times roll.

In 2003 UNESCO proclaimed the “White City” (historic zone) of Tel Aviv a World Cultural Heritage site. The designation recognizes the city’s 3500 to 4000 Bauhaus-style buildings erected from 1920s to 1950s by immigrant architects who studied at the Bauhaus School in Germany. Interpreted for the Tel Aviv environment, the Israeli International (Bauhaus) architecture focuses on simplicity of design, inexpensive building materials, and functionality over frou frou. Most structures are two to three-story, cubic shapes with flat roofs, white walls and facades with ledges offering shade.

Many Bauhaus buildings line the lovely Rothschild Boulevard.

So let’s talk about Jaffa, which claims to be the oldest port city in the world. The old (and I am talking history dating to the Ice Age, with “modern” referenced in Greek mythology and the Bible) city officially merged with the city of Tel Aviv in 1950. Despite being a part of Tel Aviv, Jaffa remains a physical and psychological separate entity with a multi-ethnic population and shopping stops that range from the shabby flea market to super chic art galleries.

A view of Jaffa in the rain.

Tel Aviv’s walls sport an unusual amount of both graffiti and cats.

Tel Aviv graffiti.

Tel Aviv cats.

Mild Mediterranean weather, flat coastal land and dedicated bike paths throughout the city make biking a totally cool, fun, health-enhancing and cheap way to tour.

Bike rental facilities dot tourist areas in Tel Aviv.

The land of milk and honey’s cornucopia also overflows with luscious produce, so much that Israel produces over 95% of its own food and has plenty leftover for export. Israelis are creative inventors and developed new agricultural technologies to tame land unfriendly to farming. Citrus, olives, avocado, kiwi, corn, tomatoes, cucumber, dates, bananas, berries—name it—the cup runneth over.

I’ve heard Tel Aviv called the “city that doesn’t stop.” People say that the weeknight bar and club scene is like a weekend in any other city of the world, and that the weekend is like New Year’s Eve. I am told the party starts around 11 p.m. with dancing, drinking, and general merry making continuing to morning. I don’t know as I am an early-to-bed-early-to-rise type, but I have been told the town positively rocks. And I believe it—and am sure the calorie-burning dancing accounts for all those buff bodies on the beach.

And the winners for Israel’s top favorite dishes are—sharing second and third place: shawarma (spit roasted meat) and falafel (deep fried balls of ground chickpeas) both served inside a pita pocket along with tahini, chopped vegetable salads and assorted pickles. The first-place number one dish served at every hotel breakfast, every restaurant meal, every snack stand, every food outlet is…are you ready…. hummus.

There are as many variations to hummus as cooks making it. I like hummus very lemony and topped with feta as in the recipe here. If you don’t want the lemon, eliminate the zest. If you prefer a different flavor (garlic, cumin, roasted red pepper) add it. Toppings, too, are adjustable.

When it comes to the best hummus, do your own thing—make yourself happy.

HUMMUS

Yield: about 8 servings as an appetizer.

About 2 cups cooked chickpeas (see note)

1/2 cup tahini

Grated zest from 1 lemon (optional)

Juice from 1/2 lemon

Extra virgin olive oil

Chickpea cooking liquid, as needed

Salt

Optional garnish—use any or all

Whole chickpeas

2 ounces crumbled feta cheese

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Juice from 1/2 lemon

Pita bread

Place the chickpeas, tahini, lemon zest and juice from 1/2 lemon in the bowl of a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add 1/4 cup olive oil to the mixture. If the hummus is too thick, or if you want a silkier texture, with motor running, add a little reserved cooking liquid and/or more oil to mixture until desired texture is reached. Add salt to taste.

Mound hummus in the center of a plate. With the back of a large spoon, create a shallow well in the mound. Drizzle olive oil over top of hummus and garnish as desired with whole chickpeas, feta, parsley and/or lemon juice. Serve with pita bread, cut into wedges

NOTE–TO COOK CHICKPEAS Put good-quality, small dried chickpeas in a large strainer and wash under cold running water, removing any foreign matter or damaged chickpeas. Transfer chickpeas to a large bowl or pot, cover well with cold water, add a pinch of baking soda and let soak overnight.

Drain chickpeas from soaking liquid and, again, wash well under cold running water.

Put chickpeas in a large pot and generously cover with water. Add another pinch of baking soda. Set pot over moderate heat and bring water to a low boil. Skim any foam and/or skins from top of water. Boil until chickpeas are very soft and can be easily smashed when pressed between two fingers, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. Drain chickpeas (reserve cooking liquid to make hummus).

PEACE

¶ Posted 01 February 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § APPETIZERS § ISRAEL § RECIPES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Bauhaus, hummus, Israel, Jaffa, Tel Aviv

Dinner Jumping in Sasbachwalden

It’s been honored as “the most beautiful town in Germany, “but despite a picture-perfect setting surrounded by hills of vineyards on the sunny side of the Black Forest, and despite being loaded with picturesque timbered houses overflowing with flowers, Sasbachwalden is not just a pretty face. It is also a village dedicated to family and fitness travel, fresh-air activity and fabulous food. YES!

But let’s cut to the chase.

The tiny community located in the heart of what is called, “Germany’s finest Gourmet corner,” boasts 40 restaurants. These range from wine-focused taverns to homey country inns to fine-dining establishments starred by Michelin and most offer must-try specialties.

Although the cornucopia creates the classic foodie conflict—so much to eat/so little time—not to worry. Forward-thinking Sasbachwalden restaurateurs have come up with a totally pleasing program that allows visitors to sample four different restaurants in one fine meal.

“Dinner jumping,” works like this: you reserve and prepay (65 Euros—about $84), by phone or online at least 14 days in advance of the dinner, and then pick up your dinner voucher at the tourist office when you reach Sasbachwalden. The voucher lists four restaurants, all within walking distance of each other, each serving a different course of your extravagant four-course meal. You don’t order specific dishes, but vegetarian options are available and the “surprise” menu represents the best of the chef’s repertoire using the freshest ingredients available that day.

My dinner jumping started at Gasthof Zum Holzwurm with the house-specialty Flammkuchen. The pizza-like bites of heaven served as an appetizer to the appetizer course, so as soon as I devoured the Flammkuchen I was served a generous first-course salad of greens topped with topped with vegetables and fish. Next, at Restaurant Sonne, I gobbled the second course (a rich barley risotto), before moving on to Hotel-Restaurant Engel for the main course (perfectly cooked lamb with all the trimmings). Dessert at the Restaurant Fallert included five exotic-flavored ice creams and mousses followed by a plate of the chef’s most divine candies and miniature pastries. OMG. Sehr gut!

Mineral water and appropriate wine (usually the region’s famed Alde Gott) accompanied each course as did warm attentive service.

Four restaurants/four courses/flowing wine/ fabulous experience—foodies, you need to get yourself to Sasbachwalden.

For more information or to reserve, click here: Sasbachwalden Dinner Jumping.

For a sampling of the wunderbar Flammkuchen, read on.

FLAMMKUCHEN

Yield: 1 flammkuchen, 4 large pieces.

1/4 pound thickly sliced smoky bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick lardons

1 small to medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 cup quark

1/2 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons chopped chives

Salt

Pepper

Crust (You can use packaged thin pizza crusts, or thawed frozen pizza or bread dough or homemade pizza dough. If using dough, roll it 1/8-inch thick into a 12-inch circle.)

Start heating oven to 450°F.

Put bacon in a medium skillet and set over a moderate heat until the bacon renders its fat and just starts to brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper towel to drain. Add onions to bacon fat in skillet and cook until just softened, but not browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer onions to a paper towel to drain. Set bacon and onions aside until cool.

Combine quark, sour cream and chives.

Spread mixture over crust coming to within 1/4 inch of the edge. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle onions and bacon evenly over the crust.

Set flammkuchen on the bottom rack of the preheated 450°F oven and bake until the crust turns golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

Serve immediately.