WHERE TO EAT IN DENVER

Amanda Faison

Amanda Faison eats out nearly every day of the week. As Food Editor of 5280 The Denver Magazine, she constantly explores restaurants and reports on Denver’s food scene. She recommends restaurants not only in her magazine (named for the number of feet in a mile), but also on the Mile-High City’s radio and TV programs where she is a frequent guest. The Colorado native has extremely good taste supported by her love of cooking and knowledge of food, and she shares her knowledge generously having written for such titles as Sunset, Food & Wine and Cooking Light.

Amanda is Denver’s undisputed, quintessential go-to-dining resource—which is why Sweet Leisure is so excited to learn her top five favorite places to eat in Denver.

WHERE TO EAT IN DENVER

By Amanda M. Faison

Coffee: Crema Coffee House

Ask just about any discerning (and local) java fan, and he or she will likely credit Crema with changing the face of coffee in Denver. Although the Mile High City has long had a plethora of coffee shops and hangouts to choose from, the espresso drinks were clumsy and the drip coffee did its job but nothing more. Instead of going for the product, you went for the place. And then Crema opened. Owner Noah Price made it his mission to brew and pour the best coffee available. He isn’t loyal to one roaster, instead he changes his espresso nearly every day—sometimes multiple times a day—to account for shifts in humidity and barometric pressure. Yes, it’s that kind of dedication that makes Crema a must-visit. Don’t miss pairing your coffee with the sweet potato waffle with candied walnuts. 2862 Larimer St., 720-284-9648, cremacoffeehouse.net

Brunch: Olivéa

There’s something about brunch at Olivéa that makes me feel like I’m on vacation, even when I’m dining just a few blocks from home. The indoor space is either slammed or empty and in both scenarios I prefer the sun-bathed patio. A half dozen tables fit with handsome, moveable sun shades stretch along 17th Avenue. The thoroughfare isn’t so busy that it overtakes your meal or leaves you coughing in a fit on diesel fumes, instead it gives the restaurant a distinctly urban feel. The menu is the very definition of seasonal with vegetables, fruits, and preserves changing to reflect what’s available (sometimes from the restaurant’s own garden). I almost always order the eggs Olivéa with two sunny side-ups on soft polenta with sage, pine nuts, and a heavenly soffritto. No matter your choice, don’t pass up the basket of breakfast pastries. 719 E. 17th Ave., 303-861-5050 olivearestaurant.com

Sandwiches: Salumeria Cinque Soldi

In general, I find really good, thoughtful sandwiches difficult to come by, but not at Salumeria Cinque Soldi. This Italian-style, New York-ish deli serves primo meats (many of which are cured at Il Mondo Vecchio at couple miles away) and does the lunch staple justice. I’ve worked my way through the menu and my favorites remain the porchetta with braised greens and fried peppers and the tuna with olive oil and vinegar (read: no mayo). The sandwiches are beefy and easily shared, and they come with a bag of thick-cut chips (no wimpy Lay’s here). Don’t leave without ordering a cheese plate—with salumis, cheeses, and accoutrements—for later. 1284 S. Pearl St., 303-996-6400

Cocktails: Williams & Graham

Enter Williams & Graham at happy hour and you’ll find yourself inside a bookshop wondering where the cocktails are. Give your name to the clerk and (if you have reservations), you’ll be granted entrance to a speakeasy-style bar hidden behind a wooden panel. Order from the menu—the Reverend is especially noteworthy with 12-year Bourbon, Colorado peaches, mint, and honey—or ask the bartender to surprise you. For nibbles, don’t miss the bacon beignets with blackberry-sage reduction. 3160 Tejon St., 303-997-8886, williamsandgraham.com/

Dinner: ChoLon Modern Asian Bistro

Southeast Asian cuisine and Denver probably seem like an unlikely pairing. Chef Lon Symensma spent months touring Southeast Asia in preparation for ChoLon’s opening. His research pays dividends in the form of soup dumplings (place an order the moment you sit down), kaya toast with coconut jam, and pork ribs with smoked tamarind barbecue sauce and green papaya salad. The flavors and textures are pure, exotic, and surprising. But as carefully crafted as Symensma’s food is, it’s still fun and lighthearted. The modern downtown space is equally thrilling. 1555 Blake St., Suite 101, 303-353-5223, cholon.com

¶ Posted 11 October 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § COLORADO § DENVER § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off °

WHERE TO DRINK BEER IN BRUSSELS

100 bottles of beer on the wall,

100 bottles of beer.

Should one of those bottles happen to fall—

400 more bottles of beer on the wall.

Belgium produces about 500 types of beer and Brussels tempts tourists with a staggering number of restaurants, cafes, bars that serve the brew. But Sweet Leisure readers headed to Brussels need not be bamboozled by beer bounty, thanks to Chef Robert Wiedmaier who knows all about Belgium and beers and tells us where to jump on the beer bandwagon in Brussels.

Chef Robert Wiedmaier

Born to a Belgian father and American mother, Robert trained in the Netherlands and worked under leading chefs in Brussels and Washington, D.C. before opening his own restaurants. Each of Robert’s restaurants incorporates Belgian elements. For examples the elegant Marcel’s in Washington serves “French cuisine with Flemish flair” and Brasserie Beck, also in Washington, offers Belgian brasserie fare and the city’s largest selection of Belgian beer. Robert’s two other restaurants, the fine-dining Brabo in Alexandria, and the casual Mussel Bar in Bethesda, both feature the best of the best Belgian cuisine.

An unofficial ambassador of Belgian food and drink, Robert was officially enthroned as an Honorary Knight in The Knighthood of the Brewers’ Mashstaff in Brussels last August. I am not exactly sure what this means, except that it’s a big honor and given to only those who are extraordinary Belgian beer authorities and experts, which is why Sweet Leisure is so happy to bring you Robert Wiedmaier’s list of personal favorite Brussels beer bars located near the Grand Palace. No doubt you’ll want to tap into these ASAP.

WHERE TO DRINK BEER IN BRUSSELS

by Robert Wiedmaier

A la Bécasse (“The Lark”) This place is a snapshot of 19^th century Belgium. The small, simple space is filled with long wooden benches, the waiters wear Monk-style uniforms, and they have their own house barrel beers. This café is one of the only spots that I’ve seen that serves lambic on draught, in stoneware jugs. It’s a few blocks from the Grand Place but hidden down a narrow passageway across from St. Nicholas. Rue de Tabora 11

The Poechenellekelder (The Puppet Cellar) is a quirky little bar across from the Mannekin Pis (the “pissing boy” statue). It’s busy for both locals and tourists, and usually difficult to find a seat. The place is covered with hanging marionettes and trinkets. This place has been around a long time and is well known for its extensive beer list that has close to one hundred Belgian varieties, most pretty standard, but with some harder to find Belgians like the unlabeled Westvleteren Trappist. Plus, if you stick around for a few beers, they’ll bring you snacks on the house. Rue de Chene 5

A la Mort Subtite (Sudden Death) is a busy historic bar that brings all sorts of people. La Mort serves Belgian classics like Gueuze, lambics and Trappists. It’s reasonably priced and has basic snacks to pair with beers like meat and cheese cubes. I should also note that unlike many of the other Brussels beer houses, which are often rustic and small, la Mort has an elegant interior with tall ceilings, pillars and huge mirrors. Rue Montagne-aux-Herbes-Potagères 7

A L’Imaige Nostre-Dame is one of the oldest cafes in Brussels, and like most of the city’s best-kept secrets, it is pretty hard to find unless you know where to go. Similar to “The Lark,” the cafe is at the end of a very long, very narrow alleyway just a few minutes from the Grand Palace, but off the tourist route. It is windowless, rustic and a little tight (especially if you are tall like me), but it has some good local beers and about two dozen bottles with some standards like Affigem and Juliper. The have Saint Feuillien Blonde on draught along with a good range of rare beers and some seasonal varieties. Their specialty is La Bourgogne des Flandres, which is Belgian brown ale brewed in oak barrels. Rue Marche-aux Herbs 8.

Au Bon Vieux Temps (The Good Old Days) is close to à l’Imaige Nostre-Dame and keeps a pretty low-key local vibe. It has a smaller beer list with about 25 or so traditional Belgians, but the atmosphere alone is worth stopping in for a look. It has been around for more than 300 years and has a Gothic-church décor with stained glass windows and dark wood. Rue du Marché aux Herbes 12

Le Corbeau (The Raven) is a local favorite and has one of the best beer menus in the city. The Chimay Bleue comes in a two-foot high Chevalier glass. They have 30 or so bottles and about eight draughts including Kriek and Framboise (cherry and raspberry). It’s a good lunch place and is reasonably priced, but in the evening I have been told it gets pretty rowdy with the student crowd. Rue Saint Michel 18

¶ Posted 28 September 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BEER § BELGIUM § BEVERAGES § BRUSSELS § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

PAELLA VALENCIANA

Spanish tourism authorities claim that Germans head to Valencia for the beach and the gastronomy; that the French seek fashion, the design hotels and the gastronomy; and that Americans like the history, the culture and the gastronomy. See a pattern here? Everyone loves Valencia’s gastronomy. I know the reason. It’s called Paella.

That luscious rice concoction that catapulted to stardom in cities all over Spain was actually born in Valencia.

Albufera Rice Field

Invading Moors planted rice in the marshlands of what is now Albufera Natural Park (on the outskirts of the city). Workers cooked that rice, in the fields, over an open fire with ingredients on hand (snails, rabbits, backyard vegetables, and an occasional chicken). Eventually farm-style paella was joined by seafood paella. (Valencia is, after all, overflowing with seafood being located on the Mediterranean Sea, at the mouth of the Turia River and minutes from a super large freshwater lagoon.)

Today Valencians produce the purest paellas of them all—not deviating much from centuries-old tradition. For example, Valencians still serve two types of the dish, Paella Valenciana (the meat variety) and Paella de Marisco (with seafood); it is considered a no no to mix meat and seafood in the same paella. Also, Valencians, as they have for centuries, generally cook paella for a family lunch (not dinner) on Sundays (the non-work day), outdoors over an open fire. By tradition, cooks are men (who are strong enough to carry the large pans, endure the heat of the outdoor fire and—as one gentleman confessed—prefer cooking to going to church).

Visitors to Valencia can not only sample the best of the best classic paellas, but also learn how to make them in workshops and classes held in restaurants owned by paella masters Rafael Vidal and Rafael Galvez Benedito.

Rafael Vidal

Rafael Vidal cooked paella for the king and queen of Spain on their first visit to Valencia and has taken his paella show on the road in the United States and elsewhere, earning an international reputation. Vidal owns two restaurants named Restaurante Levante, one is in Benisano outside of Valencia and a sleek new version in Valencia itself.

Rafael Galvez Benedito

Rafael Galvez Benedito cooks for celebrities, tourists and locals at his farmhouse restaurant, La Matandeta, located on the edge of a rice marsh in Albufera Natural Park.

Both men contributed to the composite recipe below, Vidal sharing sage information at a luncheon party at Restaurante Levante Valencia and Galvez actually giving a workshop demonstration at La Matandeta. In addition, tourism authority Maximo Caletrio offered wise tips, translations and tidbits from his family’s treasured recipe.

Before attempting to make a classic Paella Valenciana you will need:

A classic paella pan made of steel, with a flat bottom, gently sloping sides and two handles. The rivets of the handle are an important marker for the amount of liquid and rice to use. The size of the pan dictates the amount of ingredients and the number served. My 15-inch pan yields eight servings.

Rice grown around the village of Calasparra awarded a Denominacion de Origen designation for quality. Connoisseurs consider two varieties of short-grain Calasparra rice for their paella, Sollana (also called Calasparra) and the best of all, Bomba.

Ingredients of the highest quality available locally, including:

Liquid: most country-style paellas are made with water (purified water suggested) and/or broth.

Meats: Rafael Vidal’s recipe calls for white vaqueta snails collected only after a rain. Like, how many of those will you find in your back yard? You can leave them out and also skip the rabbit, making paella with only chicken and vegetables. Keep meat pieces small to insure meat and rice will finish cooking at same time.

Beans: Valencians use both fresh and dried beans such as green runner beans (bachoqueta de herradura) and white butter beans (garrofons), but you can substitute what you have at hand: long flat green beans (cut into 1-inch pieces), fava beans, lima beans, regular green beans, peas and/or butter beans. If using dried beans, soaked them overnight and precooked until tender. Fresh beans need to be blanched before going into paella. Frozen beans just need thawing.

Colorant: Valencians like their paella strongly colored, thus they add a colorant. Unless you have access to a good Spanish specialty shop that sells a colorant, you might want to stick with saffron plus some paprika to intensify color.

Important points to keep in mind:

Proportions in the recipe’s ingredient list below are only an approximate—vague at that. Amount of ingredients depends on many factors including amount of meat, type of rice and intensity of heat. After you make your first paella, you will be able to judge amount of ingredients for subsequent ones.

Once the rice is spread in the pan, it is never ever stirred. (The fire is manipulated, not the rice.)

Valencians consider the brown crust that forms on the bottom of properly cooked paella a delicacy. Brown and crisp without burn is hard for the novice to achieve. Actually making the perfect Valencian-style paella is a bit tricky first time around. Best to keep in mind that if at first you don’t succeed try try again and practice makes perfect.

PAELLA VALENCIANA

Amounts approximate for a 15-inch pan yielding 8 servings.

8 small pieces, skin on free-range chicken

8 small pieces rabbit, skinned (or use all chicken)

Coarse kosher salt

Black pepper

About 3 large cloves garlic, mashed

Olive oil

2 vine-ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely diced

About 1/2 teaspoon pulverized saffron threads

1 teaspoon sweet Spanish paprika

About 2 cups fresh green beans, cut into 2-inch pieces, blanched (or use frozen and thawed)

About 1 cup fresh lima beans, blanched (or use frozen and thawed)

About 8 to 9 cups purified water or chicken broth (or a combination)

2-1/2 to 3 cups short-grain Calasparra rice, preferably Bomba

Season chicken and rabbit with salt, pepper and mashed garlic. Set aside.

Build a wood fire (wood adds smoky flavor and keeps the temperature high and even).

When fire is hot, set a grate over it and put a paella pan on the grate. Sprinkle coarse salt in the bottom of pan (will prevent rice from burning) and add a thin layer of olive oil. When the oil is hot add seasoned chicken and rabbit and sauté, turning pieces until they are golden brown and beginning to crisp, but not fully cooked, about 8 minutes.

Add tomato saffron, paprika and beans; cook briefly, stirring gently, then add enough liquid to come to the bottom of the rivets on your paella pan (the rivets attaching the handles).

Build up the fire with twigs or wood to create a high heat and give the liquid a steady rolling boil over the whole pan. Add rice to pan in a cross pattern, about 1-inch wide and 1/4- inch deep. With a spatula, gently spread rice evenly over pan. From this point on liquid should remain at an even gentle boil and rice should not be stirred. You can control the fire by spreading the it to the edges of the pan, away from the center.

Let mixture simmer until liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes.

As soon as the rice absorbs all of the liquid, remove the paella from fire, cover lightly with kitchen towels, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Serve directly from pan.

¶ Posted 02 September 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ENTREES § SPAIN § TRAVEL § Uncategorized § VALENCIA ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Albufera, Calasparra rice, Paella de Marisco, Paella Valenciana, Rafael Galvez Benedito, Rafael Vidal, Valencia

BARGING THROUGH BURGUNDY

We floated with the grace of a swan, paced considerably slower than a stroll. We dined for hours. We lingered and lounged and watched the ever-changing countryside. We visited sites and we biked and hiked, but whatever we did, and wherever we were didn’t really matter, for a European barge cruise is not about reaching a spot and checking off sights seen, it’s about thoroughly, lazily, enjoying the moment. Barging is as easy as a nap, pleasant as a sweet dream, enjoyable as a summer afternoon.

Here, let me tell you about a top-notch trip on La Reine Pedauque (translating the goose-footed queen—don’t ask), a 4-bedroom, 8-passenger hotel barge floating on the Canal de Bourgogne.

We boarded the barge in Vandenesse, the flower-filled village near the summit of the canal.

While the crew lugged luggage to our room (all four truly spacious by barge standards),

we stayed on deck and became acquainted with fellow passengers and Kir Royal—the fabulous Burgundy aperitif.

KIR ROYAL: Put an inch or so of crème de cassis (the luscious blackcurrant liqueur specialty of Burgundy) in a flute. Fill the flute with Crémant de Bougogne (the heavenly sparkling white wine specialty of Burgundy). Sip. Repeat.

After the liquid welcome, passengers changed clothes for dinner (no dress up, just clean—each room has an attached bathroom with shower and an array of French toiletries—sweet!). Nights on both the Pedauque’s three-night mini-cruise or six-night full cruise belong to fine dining (glory be). Each four-course dinner starts with an amuse-bouche (which, frankly, didn’t amuse me as the tidbits were so tantalizing I found it a terrible tease to be limited to one bite).

During the day, we peacefully floated through the countryside

passing farm fields

and small villages

and majestic châteaux

and fields of sunflowers

and green pastures graced with Burgundy’s famous white Charolais cattle.

(Vegetarians close your eyes—the same breed of cattle sometimes graced our dining table).

And we passed through locks (45 of them),

sometimes getting off the barge to bike (borrowed from the barge) or hike (more like stroll) along the tree-lined towpath.

We also toured small villages and a grand chateau and even Dijon (See WHERE TO EAT IN DIJON).

On board we talked, read, napped, drank and ate an endless array of marvelous food.

Yes indeed, barging on Le Canal de Bourgogne is the crème de la crème—and so is this recipe, both literally and figuratively.

SALADE REINE PEDAUQUE

COMPOSED SALAD WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE VINAIGRETTE

(Serve this salad plated in individual portions as a first course.)

A variety of baby lettuces

A variety of vegetables, trimmed and boiled until just tender. Good choices:

Asparagus

Baby beets

Baby carrots

Stalks of baby fennel

Peas

Ground cherries (or yellow heirloom cocktail tomatoes)

Cocktail tomatoes

Micro herbs (or finely chopped assorted fresh herbs)

Arrange lettuces in the center of each serving plate. Arrange cooked vegetables in a pretty pattern on top of greens. Garnish each plate with peas, ground cherries and tomatoes.

Drizzle a little vinaigrette over top of salad and sprinkle lightly with micro herbs.

SALADE REINE PEDAUQUE VINAIGRETTE

Yield: About 1 cup.

3/4 cup crème fraîche

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 small shallot, peeled and finely minced

Salt to taste

Freshly ground white pepper, to taste

Put all ingredients in a bowl and whisk until well blended.

¶ Posted 25 August 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § BURGUNDY § CRUISING § FRANCE § RESORTS § SALADS ‡ Comments Off °

Best Restaurants in Columbia, Missouri

Danene Beedle is the perfect person to suggest where to eat in Columbia, Missouri. As the marketing director for the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, Danene is a wine connoisseur. As an avid foodie and accomplished cook, she sports a highly developed appreciation of fine food. Her job description includes traveling through Missouri, co-coordinating food and wine activity with restaurants and bringing food and wine information to the general public.

Danene stays abreast of all things connected with food and wine for her blog Missouri Wine Girl and is particularly focused on food and wine in Columbia having contributed to The CoMo Collective blog.

In addition, Danene has great taste and lives in Columbia where she has had ample opportunity to try the best of the best.

The college town boasts more than 200 restaurants. Here, in her own words, are Danene’s favorites:

Sycamore on Broadway is local at it’s best! Chef/partner Mike Odette earned a James Beard award nomination for his delicious food sourced from local purveyors. The pork belly sliders are justly famous, but the beet salad with goat cheese is my year round favorite! Sycamore offers a unique list of beer and Missouri wines—and they have the best happy hour in town!

Chris McD’s on Forum is a new favorite. Although the restaurant has been in Columbia for decades, I just recently discovered it. Expect an extensive menu, outstanding service and high quality food. You’ll find many seafood options (the scallops are to die for!).

If you are looking for the classic diner, Ernie’s Café & Steak House on Walnut is your place. The inside counter and few booths are very cozy, but I like dining outside on the sidewalk. Don’t miss the French toast and crispy hash browns. Great service too!

While we are on the subject of breakfast, Broadway Brewery on Broadway has an incredibly tasty Sunday brunch! Their burger bar offers Kobe beef as well as locally sourced beef, and the build-your-own Bloody Mary is superb! Biscuits and Gravy, local eggs and omelets make for a hearty meal. This place is good for lunch and dinner too, offering lots of local produce, proteins and house-brewed beer.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Murry’s on Green Meadows; it’s a Columbia institution! The menu includes healthy options such as salads and the Ahi Tuna Pesto Sandwich, as well as richer specialities such as the Blue Chips Cheese Bread. Fresh hand-breaded oysters and spicy shrimp are not to be missed. And the steak sandwich is absolutely the best in town!

Columbia sports the world-famous Booches, a 100-year-old-plus pool hall serving burgers, chips and beer. They stock the local favorite Stag beer in a bottle which pairs perfectly with a couple of burgers. Closed on Sundays—they say they’ll see you in church!

For pizza, Shakespeare’s is a national landmark. Order the signature Masterpiece, it comes with everything. You won’t be disappointed!

For happy hour with wonderful food try Room 38! Great drinks, swanky vibe and really good dishes; try their baked Brie, or prosciutto wrapped asparagus. Very cool.

For the ice-cream fans, Sparky’s on 9th street is SWEET! They have lots of unique flavors for kids and adults alike, all house made in small batches. Flavors change constantly.

For a CoMo winery experience, travel nine miles west to Blufftop Bistro at Les Bourgeois Vineyards. Not only can you enjoy award winning Missouri Wines, but the menu is a seasonal, ever-changing array of locally sourced foods. The Gorgonzola savory cheesecake and the chocolate Nemisis are the perfect beginning and ending to a delicious meal in Missouri Wine country.

¶ Posted 06 August 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § COLUMBIA § MISSOURI § RESTAURANTS ‡ Comments Off °

Cocktail Recipe from Gulf Shores, Alabama

I’m most impressed by the color palette and how The Hangout’s signature cocktail, the Surf’s Up, matches the restaurant’s aqua, orange and yellow menus. No accident here. The coordination is highly calculated. Then, again, so is everything about the property.

Location right on the beach, indoor/outdoor seating, kid’s activities, DJs who badger the tourists into dancing on tables and the too-loud-for-talk music are just a few components calculated to draw the crowds, which include families, couples, groups and lots of tourists.

I like several things about The Hangout in addition to the cocktail.

Of course, I really (really really) like the beach on which the property sits in Gulf Shores, Alabama.

I sort of like the store, which stocks a step-up-from-low-down souvenirs sold at most beach shops.

And I like the wish wall—where anyone can write a wish on a slip of paper, roll the paper into a cylinder and slip it in a wall slot. (Disclaimer: I did not win a Pulitzer, the lottery or the heart of George Clooney, which I would like even more than I do the beach).

But, back to the menu-matching, multi-color cocktail. One Surf’s Up is calculated to refresh and relax the imbiber. Several are calculated to get him/her/me looped enough to join the tourists dancing on tables. (Unlike the wish wall—the Surf’s Up delivers.)

SURF’S UP COCKTAIL

Yield: 1 serving.

Fill a 12 ounce glass with ice cubes. Add: 1 ounce Bacardi light rum, 1 ounce Malibu coconut rum and 1/2 ounces peach schnapps. Then carefully, to keep colors as separate as possible, pour enough pineapple juice in one side of the glass and cranberry juice in the opposite side to fill the glass. Top with a generous drizzle of Blue Curacao. Garnish, if desired, with an orange slice and a cherry, which you stick on the end of a straw.

¶ Posted 26 July 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § COCKTAILS § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

BIKINI BOOT CAMP AND GRILLED FISH SALAD

According to recent research (conducted by myself and certainly not with any facts attached), The Riviera Maya, along Mexico’s Caribbean coast, hosts more spas than any other similar-sized area on the planet.

Riviera Maya spas run the gamut from five-star palaces of perfection, where attentive staff oil and spoil tony clients in settings both serene and luxurious to bare-bones, beach-side set ups with massage offered along with the sounds of the sea.

Spiffy or spartan, Riviera Maya spas are easy to categorize—with one exception. Bikini Boot Camp in Tulum defies description.

Whereas most Riviera Maya facilities are day spas, Bikini Boot Camp is a casual, weight-loss, heavy-on-yoga, sort of destination spa, taking guests for three to six night programmed stays.

I took a peek, not the program, so I can’t comment on the full monte, but do know that (1) the boys and babes with beautiful bikini-buff bodies who run the place are competent, if not keen on rigid scheduling; (2) the facilities are comfortable in an eco, hippie-chic sort of a way;

Amansala

(3) the yoga is terrific;

Yoga overlooking the sea

(4) the zumba, lively;

Zumba

(5) the Maya clay treatment (self administered and washed off in the sea) is interesting and somewhat fun;

Clay treatment in progress

and (6) the kitchen is top notch.

Serving salads

The Amansala boutique hotel that houses the camp puts up non-camp guests when rooms are available, a boon to travelers as the property sits directly on a great beach and makes a swell spot for a relaxing getaway.

And best of all for those whose bodies are beyond boot camp repair, the kitchen is open to the public.

I stayed for lunch, which was slowly served in a large airy dining room overlooking the beach. Dining décor included hummingbirds flying by to visit surrounding flowers, the owner’s white labs working the room, seeking strokes and scratches, and a bikini camper who ditched an exercise class in favor of a siesta on a nearby couch. A gentle breeze cooled the afternoon and the food matched the setting, being simple, straightforward and totally pleasurable.

Amansala chefs focus on lowish-calorie dishes based on fresh local fruits, vegetables, fish and chicken, and the owners believe in weight loss without deprivation, so I was able to accompany my light and flavorful grilled fish salad with a mango margarita and an order of bananas foster. Sigh!

In summery, after only a short stop skimming the surface of Bikini Boot Camp, I can sincerely say that the scenery, the setting and the salad are simply sensational and that those I saw settled in for a longer stay looked like happy campers indeed.

GRILLED FISH SALAD

Yield: 2 servings.

6 small fish fillets

Amansala Fish Marinade (recipe follows)

Vegetable oil

About 2 cups finely cut lettuce

About 1 cup shredded red cabbage

About 1 cup shredded green cabbage

1 small carrot, peeled and grated

1 small tomato, trimmed and chopped

Amansala Salad Dressing to taste (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds

Several thick strips ripe avocado

1 lime, cut into quarters, for garnish

Put fish in a glass bowl. Pour marinade over fish and let marinade several hours. Drain well.

Put a very light layer of oil in a large non-stick skillet set over medium heat. When oil is hot, add fish to skillet and sauté, turning once, until fish is just cooked through, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile combine lettuce, cabbage, carrot and tomatoes. Toss lightly with dressing.

Put equal portions of salad on two serving plates. Sprinkle each serving with pumpkin seeds. Top each serving with three cooked fish fillets and several avocado strips. Drizzle a little dressing over fish and avocado. Garnish salads with lime quarters.

AMANSALA FISH MARAINADE

Yield: About 3/4 cup (enough for six fish fillets)

1/2 cup white wine

Juice from 1 large lime

2 large garlic cloves

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

Put all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

AMANSALA SALAD DRESSING

Yield: About 3/4 cup.

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 quarter size piece ginger, peeled and cubed

Put all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

¶ Posted 06 July 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ACCOMMODATIONS § DIETS § ENTREES § MEXICO § RECIPES § RESORTS § RESTAURANTS § RIVIERA MAYA § SALADS § SPAS § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Amansala, Bikini Boot Camp, Grilled Fish Salad, Mexico, Riviera Maya, spa, Tulum

RIVIERA MAYA: TWO GREAT RESORTS/ONE GREAT RECIPE

Time to confess. I’m promiscuous. I sleep around. Sometimes I practice a sort of serial monogamy, seduced by the pleasure of one. On the other hand, I believe “the more the merrier” and “variety is the spice of life,” so have been known to jump into a different bed each night. That’s not to say I’m indiscriminate. On the contrary, I’m super selective. Only the best win my attention. Four and five stars are preferred, but I adore resorts and will try a three-star if it offers something special. (You did know I was talking about a promiscuous love of resorts, right?)

Nowhere is sleeping around a more frustrating pleasure than on the Riviera Maya, a destination that runs from about 22 miles south of Cancun through the town of Punta Allen along the Caribbean coast of Mexico. The Riviera Maya is jam-packed with fabulous resorts. I wanted to try them all, and at the same time, wanted to settle into each for long and lingering stays. The dual desires landed me in two lush, plush beds.

Both resorts are all-inclusives located near Playa Del Carmen, about a 40-minute drive from the Cancun Airport. And both are similar in makeup, offering a top-notch spa, a shop, convention facilities and multiple pools, restaurants and bars. Although the resorts share similar traits, they differ significantly in style and attitude.

Paradisus La Esmeralda

Let me tell you about PARADISUS PLAYA DEL CARMEN first.

It’s the newest and largest kid on the Maya Riviera block, opening November 2011 with 904 rooms. The property, which is separated from the beach by a mangrove forest, spreads over three sections: La Perla (for adults only), La Esmeralda, (welcomes families) and El Zocalo, a common area between the two sections holding restaurants, bars, spa, conference center and reception areas.

Décor is so dramatic it could have been created by a Hollywood set designer with a touch of attention deficit disorder and a taste towards the spectacular. Although some areas are light, bright blue/white and otherwise Caribbean cool, others are dark and theatrical with black, brown, red and purple color schemes and over-the-top lighting fixtures, sculpture and wall treatments.

El Esmeralda suite

Spacious suites combine the dramatic (lighting and wall sculpture) with the comfortable (functional furnishings, great bathrooms, super bed). Whew! Hard to describe Paradisus as it includes such polar elements. Guess I’ll jump to the chase and tell you what I like most about the place:

1. The “swim up” pool that wraps around the terrace of most of the first floor suites.

2. The foliage packed inner courtyards, located between every 100 rooms, and the plantings and water elements in public areas that bring nature into the drama.

3. The over 400 large, coffee-table books that are placed in reception areas for guests to borrow.

4. The local dishes in the “Mexican section” of the elaborate breakfast buffet. (I scored a recipe; look below.)

and

5. La Esmeralda’s Family Concierge section, which, without sacrificing adult pleasures, focuses on kids. Kid based delights include not only activities and play rooms, but also amenities in suites, toys in the pool-side restaurant and treats such as a chocolate fountain in the reception area (activated each afternoon at tea time) and snow-cone machine at the pool. The whole scene makes me wish I had a young children to join my vacation—or even better—makes me wish I were a kid in a family lucky enough to find this resort.

Whereas words used to describe Paradisus include lively, pizzazzy dramatic and upbeat, words to describe the GRAND VELAS RIVIERA MAYA involve elegant, peaceful, gorgeous and luxurious.Tag line for the AAA Five-Diamond Grand Velas reads,” Beyond All-inclusive. Beyond All Compare.” And the marketers got it right.

Grand Velas Riviera Maya

Set on over 80 acres, the four-year old property offers an oasis of man-made beauty in a glorious natural setting that incorporates mangrove forests, jungle, and over 1,000 feet of pure white sand beach. The 491 suites fall into different categories and spread over different sections: the Zen Grand (near the convention center in the midst of lush vegetation), the Ambassador (surrounding the resorts main infinity pool overlooking the Caribbean) and the Exclusive Grand Class (ocean-front, private terraces and plunge pools). Open-air construction, landscaping and decor enhance the natural, with the resort’s basic beach-white and thatch-tan colors the perfect background for bold accents supplied by embankments of pink bougainvillea cascading over terraces, luxuriant greenery lining walking paths and dazzling blues of the pools and the sea.

Of course, spacious suites pack in the amenities, including walk in closets, extra large bathrooms (Jacuzzi tub, separate rainforest-head shower, dual sinks) and graceful terraces.

So what did I like best about Grand Velas? I liked everything, but especially:

1. The spa, with its hydrotherapy circuit.

2. The nature-gone-wild setting surrounding the resort and the restrained and cultivated landscaping within the resort.

3. The general gentle and genteel ambiance.

4. The three-to-one staff-to-guest room ratio providing super service.

and

5. Cocina de Autor, the resort’s signature restaurant. Although the property’s seven other restaurants tempt guests with a variety of cuisines including Mexican, Asian, Italian and French, Cocina de Autor serves inventive, creative dishes that dabble with the molecular and are so unique as to defy description. I’d stay at Grand Velas just to eat at Cocina de Autor.

And while on the subject of good food, let’s get back to the recipe from Paradisus. Although the resort serves Rajas Poblanas Con Elote on its breakfast buffet—and the dish is wonderful with breakfast foods—the rich sweetness of poblanos mixed with corn and cream provide a perfect accompaniment for barbecues, grills and roasts.

RAJAS POBLANAS CON ELOTE or

POBLANO STRIPS WITH CORN

Yield: 6 servings.

6 fresh poblano peppers

1 medium yellow onion

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Kernels cut from 4 ears corn

2 cloves garlic, crushed

About 2 cups Mexican crema (or substitute crème fraiche or sour cream thinned with a little heavy cream)

Heavy cream as needed

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Char the poblano peppers over a gas flame or under a broiler. Enclose blackened peppers in a plastic bag and let steam for 10 minutes. Peel and seed peppers and cut into1/4-inch wide strips.

Peel and slice onion into 1/4-inch wide strips.

Put oil in a large heavy skillet set over medium heat. When oil is hot, add the onion and sauté, stirring often, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the corn and garlic and sauté, stirring often, an additional 2 minutes. Add the poblano strips and enough Mexican crema and to cover ingredients. Sprinkle as desired with salt and pepper. Bring crema to a simmer. Simmer, stirring often, until corn is cooked, sauce thickens and flavors blend, about 8 minutes. Thin sauce with cream if necessary.

Serve immediately.

¶ Posted 15 June 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ACCOMMODATIONS § BREAKFAST § BRUNCH § MEXICO § RECIPES § RESORTS § RESTAURANTS § RIVIERA MAYA § SIDE DISHES § TRAVEL ‡ Comments Off °

CUPCAKES AND MORE

I know. I know. Cupcakes are all the rage, and this restaurant specializes in them. And, yes, they are luscious. Yet when I visited Daisy Café and Cupcakery in Madison, Wisconsin, other items claimed a larger place in my heart.

Many cafes can take good cake, top it with rich butter cream and win wows, but how many can take edamame, top it with vinaigrette and create a following? Daisy does, and as much as I love cupcakes, I would go to the cafe for the edamame salad alone.

Co-owners, Daryl Sisson and Kathy Brooks, say that the Daisy focuses on “four Cs”:

Kathy Brooks and Daryl Sisson

the Café (which serves “comfort” food at breakfast and lunch daily and dinner Tuesday through Saturday);

Cupcakes (that are so good they won first runner up for “Madison’s Favorite Sweet” award, a real achievement considering that first place went to the world-renowned chocolatier Gail Ambrosius);

Coffee (and teas that are locally sourced, fair trade, organic and otherwise socially correct);

and

Community (that includes not only customers who use the café as a local hangout for family, social and business gatherings, but also outside philanthropic endeavors).

Like its flower namesake, the Daisy is casual, unpretentious and cheerful. Its menu, although unfussy, wears a slew of appealing phrases such as “made from scratch,” “vegetarian,” “gluten-free,” “natural,” “organic,” “healthier dining,” “no preservatives,” “no deep-fried foods” and “wonderful fresh flavors,” which brings us right back to the Edamame Salad.

EDAMAME SALAD

from DAISY CAFÉ & CUPCAKERY

Yield: 8 servings.

VEGETABLES

16-ounce bag of shelled edamame

1 large onion, peeled and diced

Edamame Salad serves as a popular side dish at the Daisy

1 large red pepper, peeled and diced

1/2 cup diced green onions (use mostly white part)

2 stalks celery, trimmed and diced

DRESSING

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup rice vinegar

1/3 cup soy sauce

2-1/2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons sweet chili sauce

1 tablespoon fresh minced ginger

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/3 teaspoon ground black pepper

Combine vegetables in a serving bowl.

Put dressing ingredients in a small bowl and whisk with a wire whip until well blended. Pour dressing over vegetables and toss until well mixed.

Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Drain before serving.

¶ Posted 06 June 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § MADISON § RECIPES § RESTAURANTS § SALADS § SIDE DISHES § TRAVEL § WISCONSIN ‡ Comments Off ° Tagged: Daisy Cafe and Cupcakery, edamame, salad

ADLER THERMAE SPA RESORT

Talk about the best of all possible spa worlds. Adler Thermae Spa Resort culls the finest characteristics from its German/Italian partnership to create an ideal wellness getaway. Forgive the stereotyping, but due to the German management, the spa resort is orderly, spotlessly clean and run with medical precision. Italians contribute not only a fabulous location in the lovely Orcia Valley in the heart of sunny Tuscany, but also a staff producing incredible food and an atmosphere that is happy, charming and pleasure focused.

In spa terms, Adler Thermae’s is in perfect balance, providing guests with the tools to become healthy and wellness aware as well as the facilities to enjoy life to the fullest.

Decor elements of Adler Thermae Spa

Guests can approach the five-acre, 90-room resort/spa, as they desire. Some seek a medically designed and supervised regime that includes prescribed diets, activities and educational programs. Others simply want a wellness-focused vacation in a beautiful setting complete with wonderful food, wine and health and beauty treatments.

The five-star property sports a cornucopia of amenities, including gracious rooms and suites, two restaurants, swimming pools, thermal springs, and a separate spa area with a generous number of dramatic treatment and relaxing areas.

Different and dramatic spa areas

Gardens garnish the grounds and the herb garden and vineyard, add not only to the beauty of the setting, but also supply ingredients for the dining table and spa treatments.

Adler takes its mind, body and spirit connections seriously, and the spirit aspect can seem downright decadent. (Consider the Brunello body scrub and the Bacchus Ritual, that includes a bath with vino nobile di Montepulciano.)

The mind, body and spirit are also well fed in the kitchen, which serves diet-friendly foods as well as indulgent Italian specialities.

Dining delights at Adler Thermae

As fitting a resort in the center of Italy, Adler Thermae chefs excell at making pasta dishes, the favorite of which is Mezze Maniche with Duck and Chard Sauce. (Mezze maniche refers to pasta cut into a stout cylinder shape.)

ADLER THERMAE’S

MEZZE MANICHE WITH DUCK & CHARD SAUCE

Yield: 4 first-course servings.

Extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 stalks celery, trimmed and finely chopped

1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped

6 large cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped, divided

1 full duck breast (about 12 ounces), trimmed of skin and fat and diced

Salt to taste

Pepper to taste

About 1 cup red wine

1-1/2 to 2 cups rich, flavorful duck or other poultry stock

1 tomato peeled, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)

About 12 to 16 ounces chard

About 12 ounces mezze maniche or other broad, tubular pasta

Put a light layer oil in the bottom of a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven and set pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add onion, celery, carrot and 4 cloves chopped garlic; sauté until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add duck, and sauté until pieces begin to brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Add wine. Scrape any brown bits that stick to bottom of pan into the liquid and cook until wine evaporates. Add stock, tomato, sage and rosemary. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until broth reduces, duck is tender and flavors are well blended, at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim off coarse mid ribs of chard and julienne or chop the leaves. Put a layer of olive oil in a skillet and set over medium heat. When oil is hot, stir in remaining garlic and then add chard and toss gently. Sauté chard until it is tender, about 5 minutes. Add cooked chard to duck sauce.

Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil. Add pasta and cook al dente. Drain pasta and toss with duck sauce. Serve immediately.

¶ Posted 27 April 2012 † Susan Manlin Katzman § ACCOMMODATIONS § ENTREES § ITALY § PASTA § RECIPES § RESORTS § SPAS § TRAVEL § TUSCANY ‡ Comments Off °