I only had a day in Strasbourg, which is a total disgrace for any serious traveler or food lover. I had been before, so I did a quickie catch-up tour of the city by walking around the postcard-perfect Petite France historic quarter, ogling the fairy tale houses stretched along the waterways formed by fingers of the Ill River.
I also checked out the magnificent Strasbourg Cathedral (although skipped the clock show).
That’s it. Enjoyed. Then I cut to the chase.
Alsace is a region that ping pongs between Germany and France depending on which country won the last war. Influenced by both French and German tastes, Alsace’s cross-culture food specialities are hearty, a bit rustic and filled with unique flavors and Strasburg is the city for one stop sampling. I was especially eager to try the top trifecta of Alsatian specialties:
TARTE FLAMBÉE or FLAMMEKUECHE, a flatbread slathered with creme fraiche and topped with a variety of ingredients, most commonly onion, bacon and cheese.
CHOUCROUTE GARNIE, slivered cabbage (sauerkraut) pickled in Riesling and served in a mound surrounded by a variety of sausages, potatoes and slow-cooked pork products.
and
PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS, a dish invented by a Strasbourg cook around 1780 and made from fatted-up (force-fed) geese or ducks. (I know. Horrible animal abuse. I hate it too. On the other hand, eating pâté de foie gras is a centuries old Alsatian tradition and who am I to deny history.)
With so much to savor, so little time and so many restaurants, I asked several savvy-seeming locals where to eat. I requested a restaurant serving all three dishes, but not a hushed temple of gastronomy or an artisan darling of the hip and trendy. I wanted an unpretentious place seeped in history and popular with locals, where the food is not only authentic, but also delicious and not too expensive.
I took the advice of several rather plump locals and landed at Le Gruber.
Occupying a very beautiful centuries old building, Le Gruber sits in the historic center of Strasbourg and is filled with all of the congenial bustling charm of an old-fashioned Alsatian winstub. The large spacious restaurant is divided into several dining areas, all filled to capacity with paintings, dusty knickknacks and people.
An outdoor terrace provides tables for pretty-day dining.
Although it may not be the highest rated Strasburg restaurant, I loved the atmosphere and the food.
As advised, my husband and I ordered three different tarte flambées and shared so that we could taste a variety of toppings.
Keep in mind that this is NOT a pizza. The crust is thin as a dime and crispy around around the edges. Our toppings were all white and not ever over-stacked. Flavor profiles changed depending on the type cheese sprinkled on top. (For a good Flammkuchen recipe click HERE.)
As to choucroute garnie, I must say that I am addicted to the dish served at Brasserie Lipp in Paris, but Le Gruber’s was a bit better than the Paris version.
Le Gruber’s pâté de foie gras was make of duck. I like goose better. And I wasn’t crazy about the fruit compote that came on the side, but when spread on crispy toast, the creamy, rich, flavor packed foie gras was a luxury beyond compare.
I drank a dry, crisp local Riesling. (Oh sigh! Heaven.)
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Nearby Riesling Vineyards just after harvest.
My husband enjoyed the local beer.
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Colorful Beer Statue Decorating Le Gruber
For desert we stopped at Salon de the Christian for pastry and ice cream and then strolled over to Pain d’Epices Mireille Oster, a family-owned shop said to sell the best gingerbread in all of Europe.
All was perfect! If ever I get stuck in my own Groundhog Day—this is the day I want to repeat.